Enrichment Food Toys for Bored and Destructive Dogs

Animals in nature spend much of their time hunting and foraging for food.   Although pet dogs these days have great lives - they get to live inside the house with their humans, go to dog parks, and get premium vet care - they don't get to use their hunting and problem solving skills as much as they were bred to.

In order to keep dogs from getting bored or destructive (e.g. chewing inappropriate items or digging holes in the yard), you can try giving your dog enrichment food toys, in addition to giving him enough exercise and social interaction.

There's no rule that says a dog needs to eat his meals out of a food bowl. Unless your dog is in the process of getting potty trained, in which case you may want him on a regular feeding schedule, you might consider using his meals for training and enrichment.

KONG FOOD TOYS

Website: http://www.kongcompany.com/


Available at most major pet stores or online

The Classic Kong (shown left)

This is the most basic model of Kong.  It looks like a beehive but it's a thick rubber toy that is hollow in the middle, allowing you to stuff it with food.  I recommend mixing dry kibble with a few spoonfuls of canned food (or something else that's wet, like peanut butter) so that the food doesn't come out too easily.

For high drive dogs, you can even freeze the whole thing so that it will take them longer to get the food out.

(left) This is an inside view of a Kong stuffed with food.

Wobbler

"The Wobbler is a KONG-shaped food dispensing toy and feeder that sits upright until pushed witha  dog's paw or nose, then dispenses treats as it wobbles, spins and rolls. The unpredictable movement keeps the toy challenging, even for seasoned Wobbler users. Use the Wobbler as an alternative to a dog bowl, and help to extend meal time and exercise your dog."

There are other brands that sell similar toys too.

 Kong Dental

"The KONG Dental has special grooves that clean teeth and gums as dogs chew. KONG Easy Treat can be used inside the grooves to get your dog chewing."

Like the Kong Classic, it is hollow inside so that you can stuff it with food.


NINA OTTOSON DOG ACTIVITY TOYS

Website: http://www.nina-ottosson.com/Dog-2.php

Available through Amazon.com or Nina's website

Nina Ottoson has a large selection of dog food toys that vary in difficulty level.  If the Kong is too easy for your smart dog, then you might consider these toys.  The purple toy on the right is called a DogTwister - the dog has to move the little pieces around in order to access the food.  The blue one is called a DogTornado - the dog has to spin the compartments around and remove the little white lids to get to the food.

You can see the DogTwister on YouTube at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bG4xWycW3GQ&feature=youtu.be

PREMIER'S BUSY BUDDY SERIES

Website: http://www.premier.com/View.aspx?page=dogs/products/toys/busybuddy

Available through Amazon.com, Hawaiian Humane Society, Petco and other Oahu pet stores 

Kibble Nibble (similar to Kong's Wobbler) - this toy is egg-shaped and dispenses kibble or treats through a small hole as the dog rolls it around.

Twist N Treat

The Twist N Treat is a fun toy in which you can put various size treats. You can adjust the difficulty level of the toy by twisting the top and modifying the size of the opening on the side.

Chuckle

Either end of the Chuckle has inner-facing, soft, adjustable rubber prongs that move aside to allow the toy to be stuffed with kibble or treats. The prongs of the Treat Meter™ allow food and treats to randomly dispense, rewarding your dog as he plays.  Made of natural rubber. There's another similar product called Waggle, also by Premier.

AIKIOU DOG FEEDER


Website: http://www.aikiou.com/

Food is hidden inside this feeder’s many compartments, which your dog can access by sliding the doors open or spinng the central wheel. Allowing your dog to exercise his or her problem solving instincts with the Aikiou bowl fun and rewarding for you and your pet while keeping him fit by reducing his speed of ingestion.

Watch the YouTube video below to see some dogs eating out of an Aikiou:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSvx1264qM

*****************************************************************
For ideas on what kinds of treats to put in the above food toys, see my last blog "Training Treats - A Biscuit Ain't Gonna Cut It".

*****************************************************************


DEER ANTLERS

Website: http://www.qtdog.com/antlerz.htm 

These 100% naturally shed deer antlers are cleaned and packaged for the chewing pleasure of your dog! These natural dog chews will not splinter or chip making them a safe treat for even the most aggressive chewers. Not only will they satisfy your dogs need to gnaw but they will provide nutrition because they are naturally rich in minerals such as calcium and phosphorus. The only caveat with deer antlers is that they are very hard, so I've heard from a few dog owners that their dogs chipped a tooth. So this might be best for mild chewers rather than hardcore chewers, and better for adult dogs than puppies.

Available at Crazy Canine pet store in Aiea

RAW BEEF BONES

Primal brand raw beef marrow bones (right) available at Crazy Canine pet store in Aiea

Raw beef hooves (below) available at Tamura's grocery store (and probably meat departments of most grocery stores)

A raw beef bone or hoof is another good option for keeping your dog occupied.  Raw bones are good for the dogs' teeth, and are safer than cooked or smoked bones because they don't crack.  As gross as it might seem to a human, I have yet to meet a dog that doesn't love raw beef bones!  (Important Note: You should throw the bone away after 1 day, as the bone may accumulate bacteria and/or dry out and crack, which is dangerous for your dog.)

FROZEN WATER and CHICKEN BROTH WITH TOYS 'N TREATS!

Freeze water and chicken broth with toys, carrots, treats, etc to keep dogs from getting bored and overheated in the backyard.

COCONUT HUSK

Coconuts are everywhere in Hawaii.  This is an inexpensive and eco-friendly chew toy for those who don't want to bother with fancy toys.  You can even add a little flavor to the coconut husk by pouring some chicken broth or meat-based sauce on it.

Training Treats - A Biscuit Ain't Gonna Cut It

In dog training classes, I'm often asked what kind of treats I use.  I've listed a few below although the options are endless.  When training dogs (especially rambunctious adolescent dogs that would rather do anything but pay attention to its owners) it's important to use food/treats that are rewarding to the dog, and will motivate them to do what you ask of them.  I never use dry biscuits for training!  I try to pick smelly treats that are made with good ingredients.  Usually this ends up being real meat, or dog treats with meat or fish as the number one ingredient.  (For those of you with dogs on special diets, please scroll to the bottom for ideas on how you can enhance regular kibble.)

I also like to mix up the treats so the dogs never know what to expect.  All they know is that I'm the giver of yummy treats, and I will pay them for working for me!

Real Meat

If you have the time to cook and cut up real meat, such as liver or steak, that's the most economical way.  If you prefer something a bit easier, you can try pre-cooked meat such as the grilled chicken breast strips from Costco.  All you have to do is cut the strips into bite size pieces (1/2 inch or less) and voila, you have high-value dog treats.

For liver, it helps to bake it in the oven so it's a little drier and less messier to handle.

Once you cut the meat up into little pieces (1/4 to 1/3 inches) you can store them in the freezer in a Ziploc bag or tupperware,and then grab a handful before a dog walk or training session. The warm weather in Hawaii usually defrosts the treats by the time I use them. 


Freshpet Vital

Freshpet Vital is sold at pet stores like Petco, and is made of healthful yet delicious ingredients.  The treats come in small bite-size pellets so they're very easy to use for training.  You can cut the pellets into halves to get even more mileage. Dogs love this stuff!

Here's more info: http://freshpet.com/products/vitalcompletemealsdog/

Available at Petco, Petsmart and most major pet stores.


Natural Balance Dog Food Rolls

This is a big roll of dog food that comes in beef, turkey and lamb flavor.  I usually cut these rolls into little treat size cubes and store them in the refrigerator in a Ziploc bag.  These rolls have the texture of Spam, so it will stay solid even if you cut it up. But they're moist and easy for the dogs to swallow. When it's time for a training session or a walk, you can grab a handful of the treat cubes from the fridge.  The new formula contains sugar as a preservative, so it's probably best not to feed too much of this brand to your dog. 

http://www.naturalbalanceinc.com/dogformulas/DFRolls.html

Available at Feed Trough (Waialua), Crazy Canine (Aiea), Petco and most major pet stores.


Yummy Chummies

Yummy Chummies are available at Costco and come in a bulk value bag. This  treat is 95% wild Alaska salmon with Glucosamine and Chondroitin. The treats are easy to cut up into litle pieces, requires no refrigeration, and are a good source for natural omega 3 and 6 fatty acids!

Available (sometimes) at Costco


Lamb and Rice Jerky by Sunshine Mills

This comes in a clear container with a red lid and is available for a low price at Costco.  The jerky comes in a strip about 6 or 7 inches long, and is easy to tear into little pieces.  It's not a super-high-value treat for training purposes, but it can still be used for low-difficulty-level training.


Available at Costco


Wildside Salmon Training Treats for Dogs

These are bite-sized freeze-dried bits of salmon that dogs love.  These treats have a strong salmon smell so they are quite motivating for dogs.

http://www.wildsidesalmon.com/retailcatalog.html

Available at Crazy Canine (Aiea)


Real Meat Treat Jerky series (and other jerkies)

These soft jerky treats are made from real meat and come in various flavors including chicken & venison, lamb, fish & venison, beef and more.  The treats are really easy to tear up, so you can use little pieces for training to get the most bang out of your buck.

http://www.realmeatpet.com/realmeattreats.htm

Available at Crazy Canine (Aiea)




Crazy Canine Chicken Jerky

Dogs love these chicken treats.  Made in Hawaii, these treats are made with 100% chicken breast meat. Sliced thin and dried for 10 hours for a delicious crunchy snack. No preservatives, salt, nor sugar, just chicken.  Because the chicken is dried, I tend to use this treat during training rather than dog walks.  During walks the dogs are running around and panting, so if they eat a dry treat like this, sometimes they swallow too fast and start coughing.

Available at Crazy Canine in Aiea

Pet Botanics Omega Salmon Treats

Dogs love Cardinal Laboratories’ unique 5-layer Pet Botanics Healthy Omega Treats, especially this salmon flavor.  It is stinky and easy to cut into smaller pieces.  They contain no wheat, soybean, glutens, grains, or artificial flavor. They offer Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids and antioxidants that make your dog’s coat shine. Ingredients include salmon sweet potato, and cod.

Available online

Stewart's Beef Liver Treats (Freeze Dried)

These freeze dried liver treats come in something resembling a plastic yogurt container.  The liver has a strong smell, even if it's dried, and I have yet to meet a dog who doesn't love it.  The treats come in approximately 3/4 inch pieces, but you can easily cut them up with a knife to get more mileage out of the treats.

Available at Feed Trough (Waialua), Pets R Us (Mililani) and many other pet stores

Plato Salmon Strips and Plato Thinker Sticks

Over 90% salmon, these treats are very smelly and flavorful.  The strips are easy to tear into pieces, and are perfect for training and for nose work. Also sold in chicken and duck flavors.

Available at Calvin & Susie in Honolulu, Crazy Canine in Aiea, Pets Plus and other Hawaii pet stores







"Enhanced" Kibble

Place the dog's food ration in a Ziploc bag. Drizzle some chicken or beef soup stock over the kibble, but not so much as to make it soupy. Shake the bag up so the soup stock gets on all the kibble, then use the kibble as training treats. You can also change the taste up by cutting up a few pieces of hot dog or meat and then microwaving it. Put those pieces into the Ziploc bag with the kibble and shake it up. Then remove the hot dog.

Come When Called...Or Not?

Does your dog come when called?  For most of us, the answer is, "It depends." It depends on whether the dog is distracted with something, whether you're at home or on the beach, and so on.  Most dog owners don't have this challenge while their dog is a puppy.  But come adolescence, the dogs develop more independence (just like teenager kids) and they'd rather be exploring the world and hanging out with their friends than hanging out with Mom and Dad.

Well then, how do you get your dog to come to you in all, or at least in most, situations?  It's all about conditioning your dog to think that coming to you is a good thing.  Below are 12 guidelines to help you teach your dog to come amidst distractions...

1. TEACH YOUR DOG WHAT “COME” MEANS

The first thing to do is teach your dog what is expected of them when you say “Come” (it can be another word such as “Here” if you prefer). At first, your dog won’t know what it means, so you will want to say “Come” when your dog is walking towards you anyway. Or you can say “Come,” then right away make noises or movements that will encourage your dog to come towards you. In other words, you are letting your dog hear the word “Come” as he does the corresponding behavior. With repetition, the dog learns that “Come” means that he should come to you.

Often, dogs will come to you when you just call their names, but it’s recommended that you teach your dog specifically what “Come” means.  The name is meant to get your dog’s attention before you ask for a specific behavior, for example, “Fido, Come” or “Fido, Down.”

2. MAKE IT WORTHWHILE FOR YOUR DOG / USE HIGH-VALUE REWARDS

One of the best ways to condition a reliable recall is to make it worthwhile for your dog to come to you.  Let’s look at it from your dog's point of view.  Say your dog is playing with his doggie friends and you ask him to come to you.  He does so, and you put him on leash and take him away from his friends.  Do you think your dog will come to you next time he’s playing with his friends? 

For most dogs, food is the number one thing they will work for.  If you're going to use food rewards, I recommend high-value food for Recall training.  Coming when called can be one of the most important things your dog ever learns - it could even save his life in a dangerous situation.  By “paying” for your dog’s recall with delicious treats, you are drastically increasing the odds that your dog will come to you when you ask. (Please refer to the treat chart at the end for ideas.) The treat should be equal in value or more valuable than whatever the distractions are, so you can “compete” with them.

Praise is good, but usually doesn't work as an only reward.  If your boss at work praised you profusely for doing a good job, it might make you feel good the first few times, but if you didn't also get a paycheck, then you'd probably end up quitting your job.  We all work for something.  What will your dog will work for?

It’s good to mix up the rewards too, i.e. alternate what you use as treats.  It will be more exciting for your dog.

3. START WITH BRIBING BUT SWITCH TO REWARDING

Assuming your dog has learned what “Come” means at this stage, you may find that he still won’t come to you if the distraction is extra interesting.  In that case, stick a treat right to his nose, say “Come” and take a few steps away. Usually with a treat right in front of his face, the dog will follow you.  Release the treat as soon as he takes a few steps with you, then send him back to play.

This is called bribing because you are showing your dog what he will get as a reward. We are teaching the dog that it "pays" to come to you even though there are other exciting things going on.

After you've used a bribe several times in a particular situation (such as while playing with another dog), transition to a reward system, i.e. instead of showing the dog your treat first, have the dog to come to you first, then pull out the treat.  This way, your dog won’t always rely on seeing or smelling your treat first. But he will trust that you’ll still pay him for coming.

4. ASSESS DIFFICULTY LEVEL OF EACH DISTRACTION / VARY THE REWARD QUANTITY and QUALITY BASED ON DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Each type of distraction has a different level of difficulty in terms of being able to call your dog off of it.  You may find it helpful to make a list of your dog's distraction, rate the difficulty levels, and decide what kind of rewards to use:

~ Geckos - MILDLY DIFFICULT – use medium value treats

~ Smells - grass, trees, other dogs' pee - MODERATELY DIFFICULT – use medium value treats

~ Cats - MODERATELY DIFFICULT – use medium value treats

~ Other dogs - VERY DIFFICULT – use high value treats

~ Cat poop - VERY DIFFICULT – use high value treats
- On the beach - ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE – use multiple super-high value treats!

You will want to train for each type of distraction so that your dog can generalize the Recall in various situations. Keep in mind also that the DISTANCE from which you call your dog can also add to the difficulty level. 

When your dog successfully comes to you in a distracting environment, it helps to give several small treats rather than just one big treat.  If you give several small treats consecutively rather than just one small treat, or several treats all at once, then you encourage the dog to stick around after he comes to you, instead of doing an “eat and run.”  Giving multiple treats also prolongs the enjoyable “treat party” for your dog, making it even more rewarding.

5. SET YOUR DOG UP FOR SUCCESS / GRADUALLY INCREASE DIFFICULTY LEVEL

While your dog is still learning to come to you and away from distractions, you can set your dog up for success by making things easier.  For example, rather than calling your dog from 20 feet away at the beach, walk halfway to your dog and then ask him to Come. Increase the distance as your dog becomes more reliable in his recalls.

If your dog hasn't learned to come to you in the presence of certain distractions yet, then it's better not to ask him to Come in that situation, because he may ignore you.  Instead, you can do one of the following: 1) avoid that situation, 2) keep your dog on leash, or 3) reward your dog for "checking in" with you voluntarily, rather than explicitly asking for a Come.

If your dog is playing with other dogs, or sniffing something really interesting, learn to recognize the natural pauses during the play or sniffing, and use those moments to call your dog, rather than saying Come when they are fully focused on what they’re doing. 

6. SEND YOUR DOG BACK TO PLAY 9 OUT OF 10 TIMES / KEEP IT POSITIVE

Nine out of ten times that you ask your dog to Come, send your dog back to play (or whatever he was doing before you called him) right after he comes to you and gets his reward.  This way, your dog will learn that when he comes to you, he gets a yummy treat (or toy) AND he gets to go back and play.  Coming to you does not mean “the end of fun.”

If possible avoid associating Come with things that your dog doesn't enjoy, such as taking a bath, clipping his nails or leaving the dog park. Your dog may start to avoid you when you say Come, because it means bad things.  If you need to wash your dog or clip his nails, you can quietly put him on a leash without saying Come.

7. COMMUNICATE CLEARLY

Be clear in your communication.  I recommend saying your dog's name first to get his attention, and then the word Come.  For instance, "Fido, (dog looks), Come!" rather than "Come here puppy" one day and then "Over Here" another day.  Say the name clearly first, wait for a head turn or acknowledgment, and then immediately say Come (or use a hand signal) with enthusiasm.

Remember that it's windy in Hawaii, and there are times when your dog may not hear you because you are downwind from him.  If your dog doesn't know his name very well, it's a good idea to teach him his name before teaching him other verbal cues like Come.

8. USE PRAISE AND BODY LANGUAGE EFFECTIVELY (ESPECIALLY IN THE INITIAL STAGES)

-->

You’ve probably seen dogs that start coming to the owner, but get distracted partway and walk away at a 90-degree angle.  Praising your dog with enthusiasm as he starts to come to you will encourage your dog to keep coming to you - not only are you more exciting now, the dog also enjoys the praise. 

You might also find that standing at an angle (i.e not facing your dog directly), or walking in the other direction while maintaining eye contact (i.e. as if you want your dog to chase you) will also encourage your dog to come to you.  Facing your dog or walking towards him as you say Come may appear intimidating, or like you're chasing him, which will trigger his "running away" instinct.

Sometimes a dog comes to the owner but then ducks his head away from the owner's hands because the dog doesn’t like to have his face petted or his collar grabbed.  It can help to have your dog target your treat hand, and if you have to leash your dog, then gently and inconspicuously grab her collar while she's eating the treat.

Some shy dogs feel intimidated if their human leans over them or towers over them.  It might help to squat down, or stand straight without leaning over the dog.

 

9. GIVE YOUR DOG ENOUGH EXERCISE, DOG PLAY, MENTAL STIMULATION AND OFF-LEASH TIME

Make sure that your dog regularly gets enough exercise, socialization with other dogs and/or off-leash time to get his ya-ya's out.  If your dog likes to smell the environment, then make sure he gets enough sniffing time in. Otherwise, he may run away every time you take his leash off, because that's the only way he can fulfill his own needs.

For an energetic or young dog, a 30-minute leashed walk in your neighborhood probably won’t cut it, even if it's twice a day.  They need to run, play with other dogs, swim, play fetch or go hiking!

10. SAY IT ONCE

Get in the habit of saying Come only once.  Otherwise the cue becomes "Come, come, come…I SAID COME!!" and your dog will learn that he doesn't have to come the first time you say it. 

11. COME MEANS COME

Assuming you followed the guidelines above, including not asking for more than your dog has been trained for, then your dog should come to you most of the time.  But a dog is not a machine, and you will find yourself in situations where your dog “blows you off.”  In these situations, it’s a good idea to go and get your dog. There’s no need to scold or punish your dog; just calmly go and get your dog.  This way your dog doesn’t get rewarded for ignoring you.

12. REWARD SCHEDULES

When your dog is initially learning Come, or if he is learning for the first time to Come away from a particular type of distraction (such as another dog), you should reward him every single time he complies to your Come.

As your dog becomes very reliable at recalls (with and without distractions, from a distance, in all environments), you may not need to reward 100% of the recalls. 

It's scientifically proven that a random reward schedule will make a simple behavior stronger.  You can see it in slot machine gamblers - they'd get bored if they won every single time, and they'd lose interest if they NEVER won, but because they only win sometimes, they are driven to keep pulling that lever.  Pulling a slot machine lever is pretty easy though. What if you had to solve a New York Times crossword puzzle in order to win money. It’s a more complex problem, and you’d probably want to get paid every time.

Take this into consideration when deciding when and how much to reward your dog for his recalls.  If you see your dog’s recall response declining, then it might mean that you’re not rewarding enough or that your treats are low value. I myself like to reward my dog at least 60% of easy recalls and 99% of difficult recalls for the rest of its life. It’s better to reward too much than too little and be sure to get a reliable response when you really need it. It’s like depositing money into your bank account; you’ll be able to withdraw some day when you need it most!

+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

I hope these guidelines help you train your dog's recall.  As with the rest of the advice on my blog, they are just guidelines, and I recommend supplementing them with a group class or private lessons with an in-person trainer.  There also some great videos out there including Dr. Patricia McConnell's "Lassie Come!" video: http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/product/lassie-come-dvd-dog-recall-training  

+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

TREATS AND FOOD

Treats don’t have to be expensive store-bought dog treats. They can be cut up pieces of real meat, or something else your dog goes crazy for.  Usually, the wetter and stinkier the better!  If you’re not sure what your dog likes, try a taste test.  Dry biscuits are usually not as effective because the top ingredient is typically not meat.

LOW VALUE (not recommended for Recall training)

·       Dry dog biscuits

·       Kibble

MEDIUM VALUE (can work for low distraction Recall training)

·       Zukes-type training treats

·       Dried jerky treats

·       Other packaged but non-refrigerated dog treats

HIGH VALUE (works well for higher distraction Recall training)

·       Freeze dried dog treats such as beef liver, salmon and other meat

·       Plato salmon and duck treats

·       Cheese

·       Freshpet Vital and other refrigerated dog treats

·       Sliced hot dog

·       Cold cuts (turkey, ham, bologna)

·       Steak, chicken^^, liver and other cooked meat and fish (i.e. not packaged dog treats)

^^ Costco sells packages of pre-grilled chicken that are easy to cut up into small pieces.

Please see my blog below for photos of the above treats and other ideas:

http://woofpackhawaii.blogspot.com/2011/09/training-treats-biscuit-aint-gonna-cut.html

Poultry in Motion: Chicken Training with Terry Ryan

I recently had the privilege of hosting legendary dog trainer Terry Ryan in Hawaii.  Terry has been a dog trainer for almost four decades and is the author of many books including Toolbox for Building a Great Family Dog and Coaching People To Train Their Dogs, a book that dog trainers study to prepare for their certification.  Besides being an accomplished dog trainer, Terry is famous for her chicken camps.

Why would anyone want to train a chicken, you ask?  Well, for one thing, chickens are incredibly fast.  So your timing and coordination skills are quickly improved.  Also, chickens will freeze or fly away if they don't like the way you are training them. Unlike dogs, you will know immediately if you are taking advantage of a chicken or pushing too hard too fast. Chickens don't give their trainers second chances as often as dogs do. (Excerpt from Legacy Canine website)

In Terry's chicken workshops, we used the clicker as a training tool.  A clicker is a little box that, when pressed, makes a distinctive clicking noise that is quite audible to the animal.  It serves as a marker for the correct behavior, which is followed by a reward such as food.  The animal, in this case a chicken, learns to associate the sound of the clicker with a reward.  If a verbal marker or clicker is not used, the chicken would not know what behavior is being rewarded.  The laws of learning dictate that any regularly rewarded behavior will increase in frequency.

Above: Clicker cup with cracked corn, a high-value reward for a hungry chicken!

SHAPING BEHAVIOR
In part 1 of Terry's Poultry in Motion workshop, we practiced the shaping of behavior.  Shaping means that you "gradually teach new behavior through the use of reinforcement until the target behavior is achieved (Wolfgang 272)."  In our case, the target behavior was the chicken pecking a red poker chip on the table.  We started by clicking and treating any approach or look towards the chip, until we were eventually able to get the chickens to peck the actual chips.

Above: Terry clicks and rewards the chicken for looking at the red chip.

Shaping is a common way to train behaviors in dogs, whether it's a pet dog, service dog or search and rescue dog.  An example is the "Go To Your Bed" behavior.  At first, you might reward the dog for placing one paw on his bed.  Then you would wait for a little more from the dog, such as 2 paws on the bed, then all 4 paws, and eventually the entire dog on the bed in a Down position.

RATE OF REINFORCEMENT
When shaping, an animal isn't "told" what to do.  Rather, the animal tries different behaviors, which may or may not be "correct." As a trainer, you have to walk the fine line between keeping the animal curious and guessing, while not frustrating the animal too much.  That's why it's important to keep the rate of reinforcement high enough (in other words, to reward the animal enough). 

With dogs, the worst that can happen if they don't get rewarded enough is that they get bored and lose interest in the training.  Chickens on the other hand, will get scared and fly off the training table!  Working with chickens was a good reminder to keep training sessions short and to keep the them motivated.

On the other hand, we also learned that too much reinforcement can have a downside too.

THE 80/20 RULE
While shaping the chickens we witnessed what is commonly called the 80/20 Rule.  Once a chicken or dog is successful at doing something 80% of the time, it's time to raise the criteria, or make things a little harder.  Otherwise, the animal might get stuck at the previous step.  We saw this happen when a chicken got repeatedly rewarded for just looking at the poker chip.  To put it anthropomorphically, the chicken was saying, "Why should I peck the chip if I'm getting yummy corn for just looking at the chip?"  In the "Go To The Bed" example, a dog might get stuck at putting only one paw on the bed because the trainer never raised the criteria before rewarding the dog.

COLOR DISCRIMINATION
We also taught the chickens to discriminate between the different colored poker chips.  Our goal was to have our chicken peck the red chip only, even if there were green (and later yellow) chips around.  We first reinforced the chickens heavily for pecking at the red chip.  We then slowly introduced a green chip by placing it at the edge of the table, and eventually in the center of the table near the red chip, thus setting the chicken up for success. We were instructed by Terry to make it easy for the chicken at first, so she would do the "right" behavior, rather than making it too hard from the start and and having to "correct" the wrong behavior (something we often do with our pet dogs).

EXTINCTION BURST
A few times we inadvertently made things too difficult for the chicken.  We placed the green chip too close to her so that she didn't know whether to peck the red or green chip.  Whenever the chicken did the "wrong" thing, Terry instructed us to remove the possibility of reinforcement (in this case, we picked up the red chip).  What happened next was very interesting.  The chicken started to peck the green chip (wrong one) really hard and fast, until she eventually gave up and stopped.  This is called an extinction burst, and is the temporary increase of a behavior followed by the eventual extinction of that behavior.

In a dog, you might witness it with demand barking.  Let's say your dog has a habit of barking at you so that you'll give him a treat.  Maybe one day you decide that enough is enough and you are no longer going to give in to your dog's barking demands.  Your dog may bark harder than ever as a last ditch effort ("She used to give me treats when I barked...what's going on?  Maybe she doesn't hear me!  Bark! Bark!")  During that time, you may be tempted to give him a treat to quiet him down.  Just know that the demand barking will extinguish itself if you don't reinforce it!

SUMMARY
I recommend Terry Ryan's chicken workshops to anyone who is remotely interested in training animals, whether you're a dog trainer or a pet dog owner.  Dog trainers will gain the experience of training a new species and witnessing familiar training concepts up close.  Dog owners will learn these new concepts in a unique training environment, and will be able to apply them to their own dogs at home.

I will write another blog soon about Part 2 of the chicken workshop, where we learned about chained behaviors using chicken agility!

For more information about Terry's chicken camps, please visit:
http://www.legacycanine.com/workshops/chicken-camps.html

All photos were taken by my "poultographer" husband Tor Johnson.  Visit his website at:
http://www.tjhawaii.com

How I Inadvertently Conditioned My Husband's Negative Emotional Response

The story of Ivan Pavlov and the salivating dogs is legendary, and a great example of classical conditioning.  While studying digestion in dogs, Pavlov noticed an interesting occurrence – his canine subjects would begin to salivate whenever an assistant entered the room.  Why?  Because the dogs had come to associate the assistants with the presentation of food.  This is called a learned or conditioned response, whereas an unconditioned response or reflex would be a dog salivating to the actual presentation of food.

Classical conditioning is widely used in the realm of dog training and behavior modification.  For instance, if your dog has a fear of elevators, you might pair the elevator rides with your dog's favorite treats or toy.  Your dog would eventually begin to look forward to riding the elevator because Elevator Ride = Favorite Treat!

The use of clickers and verbal markers is another good example of classical conditioning.  The sound of the clicker doesn't inherently have any value to your dog, but if you regularly pair it with a follow-up treat, then your dog will learn that the sound of the clicker = reward, and therefore this would lead to reinforcement and increase of the behavior you're clicking.

Using classical conditioning can be a great way to train dogs if you use it deliberately.  Towards the beginning of my dog training apprenticeship, my mentor Marie Selarque gave me the assignment of conditioning an emotional response in my dog using a neutral object (i.e. something that didn't already have a good or bad association for my dog).  I chose a baseball cap.  Several times a day for about a week, I paired the sight of my baseball cap with everything that Luka loved, such as chicken treats and walks.  By the end of the week, Luka was wagging his tail and perking up his ears whenever I presented the baseball cap to him!  This was a fun exercise that showed me the power of classical conditioning - something that affects the learning process in all animals, including humans.

Since then I've learned that we can also inadvertently condition a negative emotional response.  I'll tell you something funny that happened to me recently (well, it's funny in retrospect).

Target Training With Luka

Over the last few weeks, I've been training my dog Luka to target (or touch) things with his nose.  I started by having him touch the palm of my hand, and then the end of a chopstick.  Currently he's learning to touch the kitchen cabinet door so that he can eventually close the door with his nose.

My dog Luka is almost 9 years old and is not the sharpest tool in the shed, so to speak.  In order to teach this "trick" it was essential for me to give him feedback when he did the correct thing.  Although I could have used a clicker to mark those moments, I decided to use the verbal reward marker of Good! because my hands were busy handling the cabinet door and feeding treats.

Twice a day for the last week, I have been working on this training with Luka.  A typical session went something like, (Touch) Good! (Pause) (Touch) Good! (Touch) Good! (Pause) (Touch) Good! (Pause) (Touch) Good! (Big Push) Very Good!!!

A few days ago, I had just finished a session with Luka, only to find that my husband was in a very cranky mood.  I couldn't think of anything I had done to upset him, and when I asked him what was wrong, he wasn't really sure.  So I decided to leave him alone in order to avoid his wrath.

Several minutes later, he came to me apologetically and said, "I realized why I was so upset.  The other day when you were training Luka, I was on the phone with a client, and I could hear you saying Good! Good! Good! in the background, and I was really annoyed because I had a hard time concentrating on the phone call.  So when I heard you training Luka today, I guess it evoked that same feeling of annoyance in me!"

Now, if that isn't a brilliant example of classical conditioning, I don't know what is!  Soon after this incident, I switched from using the Good! verbal marker to using a clicker.  I thought it would be easier than changing my husband's conditioned negative emotional response to a positive one.  In puppy classes, we sometimes encounter dogs that run away when the owner says "Come!" because the owner has inadvertently taught the dog that Come = End of Play, Time for Bath, and other unpleasant things.  In these cases, we might suggest that the owner use a whole new word, like Here instead of trying to re-condition the word Come.

I encourage you to use classical conditioning to your advantage and to your puppy's advantage.  It can play a key part in socializing your young puppy to everything in her environment, including riding cars, taking baths, clipping nails, walking past barking dogs, etc.  If you're a training geek like me, you might also enjoy analyzing your own emotional reactions to various people, objects and locations in your life.  You may be surprised what you discover.

Stress and How It Affects A Dog's Bite Threshold

This blog entry was written by my mentor Marie Selarque of Pro-Dog Hawaii.  She talks about stress in dogs, and how it can affect their bite threshold.  It's something every dog owner should understand, even if their dog is not aggressive.  It can help keep everyone safe and your dog happy!

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+

In my puppy class I take great care to tell people about bite inhibition. I show them how to teach the dog that when she bites, she should inhibit the strength with which she bites rather than [inhibiting] the action of biting. It is very important that dogs know that we have much more sensitive skin than they do, and that engaging in play is much more effective if they bring us a toy rather than nip at our toes.

   In puppy class we also do a lot of handling, introductions to strangers, kids (when we have some), noises, etc. It is called socialization. This is also a very important step in the development of the puppy. By doing so we offer a buffer of "good experiences" to counteract what may come later that is not so pleasant. Hopefully the puppy, having experienced a minor conflict with tons of great encounters in class, will be better equipped to deflect, avoid or recover from a more serious aggression.

   But will it prevent bites? To a certain degree, yes. But it does only because we have reduced the possible stress that the dog would feel. Stress in dogs, as in humans, will pile up, resulting in an explosion. It can be road rage or bad temper for us and a snap or bite for them.
            
   Let's take Rover for example. He is an Aussie mix and has has great owners. They have taken him to classes, play groups, hikes, etc. They have been very conscientious about exposing their puppy to everybody and everything. Yet Rover is funny about his personal space; he does not like people approaching too fast and hovering above him. He is also sound sensitive. And to top it off he is in love with his duck toy.

   Rover will feel cautious about overly enthusiastic people wanting to pet him, but he will offer head turns and lip licking as calming signals and all will be fine. Similarly, if a stranger approaches calmly but wants to engage in tug of war with him and goes to grab his favorite toy, Rover will simply grab the toy and walk away.

   You get the picture. Rover is really a good dog. Now put all of it together. The family takes Rover to the soccer game. The field is near a big street with lots of traffic noise with buses whizzing by. There are a lot of kids running around, with high pitch voices, whistles, cheering. For most of the game Rover has been chewing on his Duck toy, lying down between mom and dad.

   Arrives the end of the game, and 3 happy kids spot Rover and come running. They crowd him (break rule of personal space), they speak loudly (break rule of quietness) and they grab the Duck (break rule of possession). Rover snaps and bites one of the kids' finger.

   Is Rover at fault? No. His owner, then? No, Rover never exhibited aggression [before]. The kids? No, they were being kids. So what happened? The stressors stacked up, making it impossible for Rover to deal with the situation other than by biting and telling everyone loudly, "Back off please!!!!!!"
He had no other way to express himself.

   This bite may seem totally unprovoked, but from the dog's perspective it was provoked, and he tried to tell people but was not heard.

   Now let's look at the possible consequences. He is scolded by his owners. Rover will fear children, soccer fields, soccer balls maybe, and will have less tolerance, starting a downward spiral toward true aggression. Or he is pushed aside to [so the owners can] attend to the bitten child. He is left alone; his action worked. He is rewarded by having peace and quiet and space. His snapping may increase.

   Also he will feel the fear that his owners now have and he will get even more worried about kids, crowd, fields, etc.

   So what is there to do? First calm everybody. Chances are Rover who has a "soft mouth" (due to the good work done in puppy classes) just bruised the finger so it is not a life/death situation. Give everyone some space and look at the situation. Teach the children how to behave near dogs, all dogs. Take control of the situation and protect your dog by preventing kids from approaching too fast, being too loud, grabbing things from the dog. Perhaps allow the kids to give Rover some treats, making everybody feel more relaxed. The final outcome of this interaction has been positive. Everyone learned and not too much damage has been done.

   Now imagine Fido, just adopted from the shelter. Stressed beyond her limits, not well socialized, put in a situation where she cannot cope, and you have a tragedy.

   In our life we are stressed and often we have little mishaps. Now let's look at Arnold for our human example. He has problems at work, he woke up late, forgot important documents, etc. It piles up but he can still cope. Then comes the phone call telling him something happened to his kid at school. He explodes and he gets in a car accident. A shouting match follows and now he shoves the person in front of him. This person looses balance, falls and gets hit by a passing car. Tragedy.

   It is so important to know the triggers that will create stress in your dog (as well as in us) and not put him/her in those situations. The dog cannot help his emotional responses any more than we can when faced with something that scares us or hurts us. Training, such as desensitization and counter-conditioning work very well and can increase tolerance but will not take nature away. What you can avoid though, is increasing the undesirable behaviors of lunging, barking, biting by punishing the dog, or inadvertently reinforcing them.

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+

For more information about desensitization and counter-conditioning please contact Marie.  You can also subscribe to her newsletter at www.prodoghawaii.com.

Mark My Words - using verbal markers to communicate to your dog

When training a dog, one of the most important things to do is to give your dog feedback about his behavior.  Timing of the feedback is very important - the reward or punishment must come within a few seconds of the dog's behavior, otherwise the dog will not understand why he is being rewarded or punished.  The problem with this is that there will inevitably be more than a few second delay in giving your dog a reward or punishment.

The idea behind using a verbal marker is to mark the exact moment that the dog is doing something right or wrong, and then follow it up with a consequence, such as a treat or a time-out.  The verbal marker acts as a bridge between the behavior and the corresponding consequence.  You may have heard of a training tool called a clicker.  It's a little plastic box that makes a clicking noise when you press on it.  It serves the same purpose as a verbal reward marker.

REWARD MARKER

A verbal reward marker can be a word such as "Yes!" or "Good!" so long as you use the same word in the same tone consistently.  The verbal marker would be followed by a "positive" consequence such as a treat, freedom, or access to another dog.

Example 1: Let's say you want to teach your dog to pay attention to you more (and look at you).  Rather than calling your dog's name numerous times, you can simply wait until he happens to look at you.  When both of your eyes meet, immediately say "Yes!" and then give your dog a treat.

Example 2: Let's say your dog is on leash and is dying to go say hello to a dog that is 10 feet away.  Your dog is pulling like mad towards him.  Wait for your dog to stop pulling on the leash, and immediately mark it with a "Yes!"  The consequence can be that you drop your dog's leash and let him go and greet the other dog.

A consistently used verbal reward marker will become a predictor of good consequences, therefore reinforcing the behavior.

NON-REWARD (or PUNISHMENT) MARKER

A non-reward marker is the opposite of a reward marker.  It tells the dog when he is doing something undesirable.  The verbal marker can be something like "Oops!" or "Uh uh!" Just remember that it is feedback, not a punishment in itself.  The verbal marker would be followed by a "negative" consequence such as a time-out or the withdrawal of your attention.  (I don't recommend giving a physical punishment such as a leash jerk.) 

Example 1: Let's say your dog jumps on you all the time.  As soon as his front paws leave the ground, say "Uh uh!" and then walk away or turn your back on your dog.

As the dog starts to make the association between the non-reward marker and the follow-up consequence, he may start to self-correct himself before you give him the consequence.  If that happens, remember to praise your dog for making the right choice. 

SUMMARY
Dogs are a lot smarter than many dog owners give them credit for.  We have to remember that dogs don't speak English, and that we have to communicate in a clear way in order for them to understand what we want them to do (or not).  Verbal markers are one way to do that.