Help! My Puppy is a Terror!

Puppies are wonderful...cute, fluffy, and oh so loveable....except when they're not!  Some of the most common behavior issues that dog owners contact me to resolve are boredom barking and destructive chewing/digging.  99% of the time, these dogs are puppies and adolescent dogs (up to 1 or 1.5 years old).

Those of you who have human children understand that kids need to go to school, study, play with other children, do sports and other activities.  If you kept your kid locked up in a room all day with nothing to do and nobody to play with, he or she would go bonkers.  The same applies to puppies and adolescent dogs.

Below is a list of things you can do to channel your puppy's energy and prevent problem behaviors followed by more details:

• EXERCISE
• MENTAL STIMULATION
• CHEW TOYS: FOOD TOYS instead of FOOD BOWLS, RAW BONES instead of  NYLABONES
• PUPPY PROOF THE ENVIRONMENT
• EAGLE EYE: MONITOR YOUR PUP
• CRATING AND KENNELING
• OTHER ALTERNATIVES: DOG WALKER, DAYCARE, DOG SITTING TRADE

EXERCISE

Although I'm not a fan of some of Cesar Millan's behavior modification techniques, I like how he ecourages dog owners to give their dogs "Exercise, Discipline, and then Affection."

Unless you have a couch potato puppy, you will want to give your puppy daily exercise.  By exercise, I don't mean a 30 minute leashed walk.  A leashed walk is good for training and bonding, but it will be nowhere near enough exercise for most puppies and adolescent dogs.  Jogging or running is not usually recommended for puppies because their bones are not fully developed, and the repetitive motions of running can negatively affect their growth.

One of the best ways to burn a puppy's energy is Puppy Play.  Get together with other puppy owners in your neighborhood for daily play sessions if possible.  If you don't know of any puppies in your area, you can sign up for puppy classes.  Or you can set up play sessions with friendly adult dogs who won't be annoyed by a puppy.

For adolescent dogs that are fully immunized, I recommend off leash hikes.  If your dog doesn't have a good recall, or you don't want to let your dog off leash for some other safety reason, you can use a long line or retractable leash.  There's a product called Jerk Ease that you can attach to your leash so that you won't get pulled off your feet when your dog reaches the end of the leash.  Meanwhile you can start training a reliable recall in your pup.

The great thing about an off-leash hike is that the dog can vary his pace according to what's comfortable for him.  He can sprint for a little, sniff the bush a little, then walk a little, sprint again or run around in circles, and so on.

Swimming is a fun form of exercise that can be done even in the heat of day.  You can keep your dog on a long line if you are concerned about him running away or jumping on other beachgoers. Doggie flotation vests can help your dog can get maximum paddling exercise without worrying about staying afloat.

Playing fetch in the yard is another easy way to exercise a dog.  If your dog doesn't know how to fetch, you can teach it to him by putting treats inside a plastic water bottle or toy.  The only way your dog gets to eat a treat is if he brings the bottle back to you.  You can gradually throw the bottle farther and farther away.

Agility, nose work, Treibball, schutzhund, flyball, truffle hunting, herding, dock diving, etc. - There are all kinds of fun classes and activities out there to exercise your dog while also giving him a mental challenge. Which brings me to the next recommendation....

MENTAL STIMULATION

Obedience Training - Physical exercise is not the only way to drain a dog's energy.  You can also do so by challenging your dog with self-control exercises including obedience training.  You'll have the added benefit of having a better behaved dog.  I recommend keeping training sessions short (i.e. 5 minutes) and doing them throughout the day rather than doing one long session.

Out and About - Take your dog with you when you run errands or when you visit your friends.  Just driving around in a car with you or meeting new people can provide lots of mental stimulation for your dog.  You'll be surprised at how exhausted he will be when you get home.

Clicker Training - Teach your dog how to do fun tricks or useful tasks such as retrieving objects or closing/opening doors and drawers.  The cool thing about clicker training is that your dog has to figure out what he needs to do in order to get rewarded.  It's a lot more mentally challenging for a dog than being told what to do.  Service dogs are trained to do all kinds of complex tasks via clicker training.

Scent Work - Dogs have a really good sense of smell.  Nose games are an excellent way to mentally stimulate a dog, especially on a rainy day when you can't take your dog out for a regular walk. It can be as simple as hiding treats around the house or yard, or as challenging as teaching your dog to search for your car keys. If you have a food-motivated pup, why not feed all his meals through hunting games in the house?  At first, you may have to show him that you're hiding his food. Once he starts to understand the game, you can put your dog away while you hide the food, then bring the dog out and tell him to go "Find it!"

Dog Sports and Activities - As mentioned in the previous section, there are lots of dog activities popping up all over the world, including Treibball, where dogs are taught to herd yoga balls instead of sheep! Find the right activity for your dog based on his breed, temperament and personality, and you are guaranteed to have a happy and tired dog at the end of the day.

Toys - It's a good idea to rotate your dog's toys to prevent boredom.  For instance, you can give your puppy toys A and B today, toys C and D tomorrow, toys E and F the day after tomorrow, then go back to toys A and B the following day, and so on.  Squeaky toys might be more interesting than a non-squeaky toy.  I usually don't give stuffed toys to destructive dogs because they will tear them apart in minutes and leave a huge mess of stuffed cotton to clean up!

CHEW TOYS: Food Toys instead of Food Bowls, Raw Bones instead of Nylabones

Dogs are predators and enjoy hunting for food.  Why not challenge them with a food toy instead of feeding their meals out of a bowl?  For super high drive dogs, a Kong stuffed with kibble and wet food, then freezed overnight should be challenging.  Below is an article I wrote with ideas on different food toys and ways to stuff them:

http://woofpackhawaii.blogspot.com/2011/10/enrichment-food-toys-for-bored-and.html

Young puppies will also need something to chew on if they are teething.  Nylabones and other plastic or rubber toys are okay, but your puppy might lose interest pretty quickly because there's no flavor.  If your vet approves, you can try giving your dog a raw marrow bone or raw beef hoof instead.  I've yet to meet a dog that does not LOVE chewing on a raw bone.  It's safer than a cooked or smoked bone because a raw bone doesn't crack so long as it's fresh.  It's also good for your dog's teeth and gums.

PUPPY PROOF THE ENVIRONMENT

A well-exercised and mentally stimulated puppy should do less destructive chewing and digging.  However puppies are puppies, and don't know that they're not supposed to dig and chew your belongings.  Just like it's necessary to babyproof a house, it's necessary to puppy proof a house, at least until the puppy is older and has gotten past the chewing/digging phase. Below are some things you can do:

~ Put shoes and slippers in a place that your puppy can't reach

~ Put away other "contraband" such as sunglasses, purse and cell phone

~ Use flexible wire fencing in your yard to close off areas with plants and other fragile objects

~ Use a deterrent product such as Bitter Apple for objects you can't put away such as furniture

Don't let your puppy practice bad behaviors because they'll turn into habits.  Instead, prevent the bad behavior and give him something better to do or chew. As he grows older, they will turn into good habits, and he won't even think about chewing the wrong thing.

EAGLE EYE: MONITOR YOUR PUP

When you are at home with your puppy, it's important to keep an eye on him or her at all times and prevent inappropriate chewing and digging.  If you see him about to do something inappropriate, redirect his attention right away and give him something appropriate to do or chew instead.

Don't scold your puppy because he won't necessarily understand why he's being scolded.  In fact, he may even start to do the digging/chewing only when you're not watching, because he knows he'll be "safe" then.

CRATING AND KENNELING

Crate, kennel or confine your dog when you can't monitor him/her.  As long as you give your dog enough exercise, attention and mental stimulation, there's nothing wrong with crating a dog.  In fact, it's good for your pup to learn how to calm down and have "down time."  It's also a good idea to get your dog used to being in a crate - if by some chance you have to go to a disaster shelter, they usually only accept animals in crates.  If you ever have to move for your job and you have to fly to the new location, your dog will need to be crated in the plane.

If your dog is new to crating or kenneling, make sure you associate the crate or kennel with good things so your dog doesn't start resenting it.  For instance, give your dog his stuffed Kong food toy every time he goes into his crate.  For more tips, please read my blog article on how to get your dog comfortable being in a crate.

It's a good idea to crate or kennel an unsupervised dog until he or she is one or 1.5 years old.  That's the typical age that a dog outgrows his bad habits of chewing and digging inappropriately.  I don't recommend crating a dog for more than 3-4 hours at at time during the day, because they will need to potty and stretch their legs.

OTHER ALTERNATIVES: DOG WALKER, DOG DAYCARE, DOG SITTING TRADES

If you have to leave your puppy or adolescent dog unsupervised for longer than that because of your work schedule, some additonal options include hiring a dog walker, using a dog daycare, asking your relatives to dog sit, or doing a daycare trade with neighbors or friends.

BAT: What It Means To Me

Beth Chambers Carbone participated in our Leash Lungers Anonymous class where we teach BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training) techniques to rehabilitate reactive, fearful and aggressive dogs.  Here she writes about what she learned and how the class helped her and her dog.

For more info on the class, which I co-teach with Pro-Dog Hawaii, please email me!

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ProDog Hawaii's Behavior Adjustment Training sessions for aggressive dogs changed my experience of walking my dog.  I think most of of think of walking a dog as a peaceful experience.  We get to spend pleasurable time with our dog, we feel the sunshine on our backs, we enjoy the beautiful landscapes of Hawaii... But my walks were not like that for a long time.

My dog, Nero, is an "intact" male Bulmastiff.  He is wonderful with humans, but he doesn't like strange dogs.  I have always been very careful on my walks to avoid other dogs -- and by avoid, I mean I walked across streets, turned around, or even ran when I saw other dogs coming close.  Nero would lunge towards strange dogs, and it was very unpleasant for me.  Every day, when I walked Nero, I felt as if I was walking in a minefield: always trying to see beyond blind corners, practicing active avoidance when I saw dogs.  And if another dog and it's owner "snuck up behind me" (i.e., walked up behind me) I would feel panic!  So my walks weren't very fun. 

That changed after Nero and I participated in BAT with Marie and Kyoko and two other dogs (Hiro and Hina).  The goal of BAT is simple: learn how to encourage non-aggressive behaviors by marking them and rewarding the dogs.  And really, that's what it is.  We met for 4 weeks, 1 hour each week, and went through a series of activities that taught us how to recognize neutralization behaviors and reward them.  So I learned what Nero does when he exhibits aggressive behavior and also when he is showing calming/neutral signals.  When he would give me those calm/neutral signals, I would immediately mark it, turn away from the other dog, and then give a reward.  We did this over and over, getting closer and closer to the other dogs.  In this experience, I learned what Nero does to be calm.  But he also learned what I want him to do when he sees another dog.

The amazing thing about it is that the behavior and training have extended beyond the two dogs we worked with. Now when we are on walks and see other dogs, I don't feel that I need to walk away.  Now that doesn't mean I get too close:  I know now that Nero is okay at about 8-10 feet away. And Nero knows that he can look at the other dog -- sometimes for many seconds -- and then he will turn his head, lick his lips, and look me in the eye.  I know that means that he is telling me he's calm, and I reward him and walk away.  Today, I was walking him and a woman walked very close to me with a big dog.  I was standing near a tree, all alone in a field, and this woman cut right towards me!   Even though I was trying to give her signals (such as saying, "Please don't come too close to me because I have an aggressive dog."), she just kept coming.  I couldn't believe it!  But guess what?  My dog Nero just sat and looked.  When she finally stopped, about six feet away from me, my dog looked at me and looked away from her dog!  I gave him a treat and then we walked on. 

So, now I really am enjoying my walks with my dog.  I am not constantly afraid that my dog is going to suddenly lunge at another dog, and I feel more confident that everything will be okay even when the unexpected happens.  Yes, I think my dog will stay alert and could be aggressive with other dogs. But the great thing is that he knows how to communicate with me, and I know how to recognize his signals.  He'll let me know if I am getting too close to another dog, and I will respect his boundaries.  And so we will walk!

Guidelines for Re-Homing A Dog

In case you are in a situation where you are fostering a stray dog and cannot keep him/her, or you must re-home your own dog for a valid reason, I've written some guidelines to ensure that your dog goes to a good home.

CRAIGLIST

Craigslist's Community-Pets section is a good place to post an ad (although you have to make sure you screen potential adopters very carefully).  It always helps to post cute photos of the dog, and as many details about the dog as possible, such as age, temperament, neuter status, health, likes/dislikes, training history, dog-friendly, people-friendly, good with kids, etc. so you can find good adoption candidates and eliminate bad ones right off the bat.  It also helps to post the ad in first person, as if the dog is writing it.  For example:

"Hi, my name is Kona and I'm a super-friendly 2.5 yr old male neutered Lab mix who is looking for a forever home because my current owner passed away.  I like children but I'd probably do best in a home with no children, because I'm big and strong and could knock a baby over.  I love to swim and run so it would be a plus if you are active and enjoy going to the beach!"
...and so on.  People like to hear a little history about the dog too, such as where he came from, and why he needs a new home.

Talking to potential adopters on the phone first will give you a good idea of whether they are a good match.  If they are, you can set up an appointment to meet them in person.

Information you'll want to post about your dog include:

GENERAL DOG INFO
* Is your dog neutered or spayed?
* Is your dog up to date on all vaccinations?
* Age?
* Male or female?
* Breed or breed mix?
* Weight?
* General health?
* Is your dog on flea/tick preventative, heartworm preventative?

DOG BEHAVIOR INFO
* Is your dog potty trained?
* What energy level is your dog (i.e. low, medium, high, super high)?
* Does your dog get along with other dogs? If not, please describe.
* Does your dog get along with cats?
* How is your dog with young children?
* Does your dog have any behavioral issues that adopters should be aware of? (You should be honest here, for the sake of everyone's safety.)
* What does your dog do that is cute or endearing?
* What activities does your dog enjoy that will help potential adopters better understand his or her personality?

YOUR INFO
* What are the circumstances for your having to re-home your dog?
* Are you asking for a re-homing fee? If so, what?
* In what area of Oahu do you live?
* What is the best way for potential adopters to reach you? Provide phone number and/or email.
* Do you have a deadline for re-homing your dog?

Important Note: If your dog has issues with other dogs/people/children, it is important that you let potential adopters know, rather than hide it because you are worried your dog won't get adopted.  Even if you might get less people inquiring about your dog, you can be comfortable knowing that only people who accept and can manage your dog's issues will adopt your dog.  You don't necessarily have to post details of behavioral problems on the ad itself, but you should mention it on the phone or in person.

PHOTO TIPS
When posting a photo in an ad or flyer, it helps to post a cute photo of the dog.  You will get a lot more responses if the dog looks happy and approachable rather than scared or unkempt. 

Photo Tip: Putting a plumeria behind her ear makes her look even cuter than she is! Get creative with props. You can use leis, bandanas, toys, and more. Just make sure your dog isn't stressed out by the props.

Photo Tip: Try to capture your dog "smiling" (mouth open, tongue hanging) and looking happy. An active shot (playing, running) is also nice, although harder to capture.

Photo Tip: This is an example of a less than ideal photo - you can't see the dog's face, he has red dirt all over his fur and he looks ragged in general.

Photo Tip: This is another less than ideal photo, taken at the vet clinic. Her body is tense, mouth closed and looking away from the camera.

LOCAL RESCUE ORGANIZATIONS
Another option you can pursue in conjunction is the local dog rescue groups.  On Oahu there are several including Hawaii Dog Foundation, HARF (Hawaii Animal Rescue Foundation), K9 Kokua, Oahu SPCA.  Most of them are very busy with stray animals and most likely will not be able to take in an owner-relinquished dog, but they may be able to help you in other ways.

For instance, Hawaii Dog Foundation will let you post an ad on their Private Adoptions page for a small donation.  The Private Adoption ad will be seen by potential adopters who will contact you directly if they are interested.  For more info go to:
 
http://www.hawaiidogfoundation.org/meet-more-dogs-courtesy-listing/apply-for-courtesy-listing/

You may also ask if you can attend their adoption events and showcase your dog to potential adopters.

SHELTER

The Hawaiian Humane Society is Oahu's only open admissions shelter, meaning they will accept animals at all times, including owner-relinquished dogs.  Because they are open admissions, they cannot possibly have enough space for all relinquished and stray animals.  Nor can they possibly adopt out all animals.  Inevitably, some animals may be euthanized.

If you are turning in a stray dog, you can ask HHS to put your contact info into the dog's record, and to contact you if the dog is deemed "unadoptable" for medical or behavioral reasons.  You will then have the choice to adopt the dog back out of HHS, and seek out other options for finding a home for the dog.  However, if the dog is deemed "adoptable," then he or she will be placed in one of their adoption kennels and hopefully will find a happy forever home.

VET CLINICS and PET STORES

You can also make and post flyers at vet clinics and pet stores.  In addition, talk directly to the vets, vet techs and pet store employees.  Pet professionals often know of people who are looking to adopt a particular kind of dog, or a new dog because their old dog passed away.

ADOPTION APPLICATION

If you want to ensure that your dog goes to a good home, it's a good idea to ask potential adopters to fill out an application.  This will not only show you how sincere they are, but will also allow you to see on paper if they are a good fit for your dog.  Here's a link to an adoption application you can use:  http://www.countrycaninehawaii.com/AdoptionApplication.doc

RE-HOMING FEE - YAY OR NAY?

Some people think that asking for an adoption fee is inappropriate, as if it makes you look like you're selling an animal just for the money.  I personally think that an adoption fee is a good idea because it shows you that a) the adopter can afford to care for the animal - after all, they will have to spend money on medical bills and food after the adoption, and b) the adopter is not just looking for a free dog that they might resell for profit, or even worse, give to a dog-fighting ring.

$75-$150 seems to be what most people ask for, but you can ask for more if you paid for neutering or spaying a stray animal that you are fostering.

HOME VISIT and MEET AND GREET

Once you have found the right adopter, the last thing you will want to do is to visit their home to make sure the house is clean, safe and suitable for a dog.  If the adopter doesn't want you to see their home, it's a red flag.

Also, if the adopter has other pets, you will want to make sure that all animals get along.  If their existing dog is territorial, introduce the dogs to each other on neutral ground.  You can also hire a dog trainer to help with dog introductions.

SPAYING AND NEUTERING

In order to minimize pet overpopulation and irresponsible breeding, it's a good idea to spay or neuter your dog before you place him in a new home.  The adopter may say they will not breed the dog, but the reality is that most people don't intentionally breed their dogs.  It happens by accident.  If you can't afford the spay/neuter surgery, you can get a "Neuter Now" discount certificate at City Hall, or use an inexpensive vet clinic, such as North Shore Vet.  You can also pass the surgery expense on to the adopter, stating that the adoption fee includes spay/neuter.


ADOPTION CONTRACT

Below is a link to an adoption contract you can have your dog's adopter read and sign.  Hopefully you will never have to use the contract against the adopter, but if you do, you will have a legal document allowing you to take your dog back if necessary.

http://www.countrycaninehawaii.com/AdoptionContract.doc

SUMMARY

I hope the above guidelines are helpful to you.  If you have questions about the re-homing process, feel free to email me.  I am always happy to help people who care about the well-being of dogs.

Dealing with Possession Aggression (Resource Guarding)

Dogs are predators. Even though pet dogs don't have to hunt to survive like their ancestors did, it's quite natural for them to guard resources, such as food, that are difficult to acquire or might be scarce at certain times of the year.  Humans guard resources too, as so commonly seen in little kids who fight over toys.  While resource guarding is perfectly normal, it becomes unsafe and problematic when a dog (or human for that matter) resorts to more serious aggression.

While you might think that your dog is being "dominant" and that the best solution is to punish your dog for growling or biting over a resource, it's not a good idea to punish.  Punishment, whether it's verbal or physical, can exacerbate the problem and make your dog even more aggressive.  (See video at the bottom of the page for an example.)

Change Your Dog's Emotional Response

What I recommend instead is to change your dog's reaction towards the "threat" (a person or another dog approaching him while he's in possession of a resource).  In trainer-ese, that reaction is called a CER, or conditioned emotional response.  For instance, your dog's current CER might be to get agitated or "angry" when you approach him while he's eating his meal.  You can gradually change that to a positive reaction by associating your approach with something good, while simultaneously making sure you don't push your dog over the edge at any point.  

Below is an example of how to to begin modifying food bowl aggression:

1) Let's say your dog starts to growl when you get within 4 feet of him and his meal.  Day 1-3, each meal - Approach your dog and his meal but stop at 5 feet away and then throw him a super-yummy treat like steak or liver that is better than the kibble he's eating.  Then simply walk away.  Repeat this several times during each meal.

2) If you find that your dog starts to eagerly look up at you in anticipation of a yummy treat when you approach, then continue to the next step.

3) Day 4-6, each meal -  Approach your dog and his meal and stop at 4 feet away.   Throw him the super-yummy treat, then walk away.  Repeat several times per meal. 

...and so on.  If your dog tends to eat his food so fast that you don't have a chance to practice these steps, you can use an "obstacle" food bowl such as Brake-Fast.

Professional Help

It's important not to rush this process.  The steps above are just an example.  It could take weeks for your dog to show significant change.  I recommend that you work with a dog trainer or behaviorist who has experience dealing with resource guarding.  He or she will teach you about canine body language (such as recognizing your dog's stress signals), help you pinpoint your dog's triggers and come up with a customized behavior modification plan, including eventually working with variations of the trigger.  For example, if your dog's trigger is a person approaching his food bowl, then the protocol will be practiced with many people, from many angles, with different speeds of approach, with hands reaching for the bowl, etc. 

Pinpointing Triggers

Some of the questions you might ask yourself, or a trainer might ask you, include:

* What type or types of resources does your dog guard?  Is it only food, or come to think of it, does she also get growly over her toys?  Or perhaps she also doesn't like it when you approach her bed.  Some dogs will guard their human owners from other household dogs.

* Does your dog display guarding behaviors towards humans only?  Towards dogs only?  Just because a dog guards against dogs doesn't necessarily mean she'll guard against humans.

* Does the value of the resource make a difference in whether your dog guards it?  Perhaps he doesn't mind if you take away a rawhide bone, but he flips out if you try to confiscate his greasy, stinky pig ear. 

Management vs Behavior Modification

In addition to training, you will also want to manage your environment in order to set your dog up for success and prevent guarding incidents.  We've all heard the saying "Practice makes perfect" - that applies to undesirable behaviors as well.  If you dog guards toys against your other dog, then do not leave any toys lying around.  Allow the dogs to play with their toys separately under supervision until you have worked with the guarder dog to a point where it is safe to leave toys lying around.

There is nothing wrong with temporary management.  It doesn't mean that your dog is a lost cause.  It just means that you are working on the issue while keeping things safe meanwhile.

Resources

Jean Donaldson’s book “Mine! A Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs” outlines the behavior modification protocol in great detail.  The book also busts some common myths about resource guarding.  If you have a dog that guards resources, this book is worth checking out.

You can also check out Dr. Sophia Yin's video on how she treated a Golden Retriever that guarded his food:  http://drsophiayin.com/resources/video_full/ben_guards_the_food_bowl 

Grisha Stewart CPDT-KA of Ahimsa Dog Training also has a good article on her blog about resource guarding:  http://ahimsadogtraining.com/blog/resource-guarding/

WHAT NOT TO DO!!!
Below is a short but very disturbing video clip from National Geographic's Dog Whisperer show.  This is an example of what not to do under any circumstance.  The dog gives many warning signals that he is going to bite, but the trainer pushed the dog over her limit.

Enrichment Food Toys for Bored and Destructive Dogs

Animals in nature spend much of their time hunting and foraging for food.   Although pet dogs these days have great lives - they get to live inside the house with their humans, go to dog parks, and get premium vet care - they don't get to use their hunting and problem solving skills as much as they were bred to.

In order to keep dogs from getting bored or destructive (e.g. chewing inappropriate items or digging holes in the yard), you can try giving your dog enrichment food toys, in addition to giving him enough exercise and social interaction.

There's no rule that says a dog needs to eat his meals out of a food bowl. Unless your dog is in the process of getting potty trained, in which case you may want him on a regular feeding schedule, you might consider using his meals for training and enrichment.

KONG FOOD TOYS

Website: http://www.kongcompany.com/


Available at most major pet stores or online

The Classic Kong (shown left)

This is the most basic model of Kong.  It looks like a beehive but it's a thick rubber toy that is hollow in the middle, allowing you to stuff it with food.  I recommend mixing dry kibble with a few spoonfuls of canned food (or something else that's wet, like peanut butter) so that the food doesn't come out too easily.

For high drive dogs, you can even freeze the whole thing so that it will take them longer to get the food out.

(left) This is an inside view of a Kong stuffed with food.

Wobbler

"The Wobbler is a KONG-shaped food dispensing toy and feeder that sits upright until pushed witha  dog's paw or nose, then dispenses treats as it wobbles, spins and rolls. The unpredictable movement keeps the toy challenging, even for seasoned Wobbler users. Use the Wobbler as an alternative to a dog bowl, and help to extend meal time and exercise your dog."

There are other brands that sell similar toys too.

 Kong Dental

"The KONG Dental has special grooves that clean teeth and gums as dogs chew. KONG Easy Treat can be used inside the grooves to get your dog chewing."

Like the Kong Classic, it is hollow inside so that you can stuff it with food.


NINA OTTOSON DOG ACTIVITY TOYS

Website: http://www.nina-ottosson.com/Dog-2.php

Available through Amazon.com or Nina's website

Nina Ottoson has a large selection of dog food toys that vary in difficulty level.  If the Kong is too easy for your smart dog, then you might consider these toys.  The purple toy on the right is called a DogTwister - the dog has to move the little pieces around in order to access the food.  The blue one is called a DogTornado - the dog has to spin the compartments around and remove the little white lids to get to the food.

You can see the DogTwister on YouTube at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bG4xWycW3GQ&feature=youtu.be

PREMIER'S BUSY BUDDY SERIES

Website: http://www.premier.com/View.aspx?page=dogs/products/toys/busybuddy

Available through Amazon.com, Hawaiian Humane Society, Petco and other Oahu pet stores 

Kibble Nibble (similar to Kong's Wobbler) - this toy is egg-shaped and dispenses kibble or treats through a small hole as the dog rolls it around.

Twist N Treat

The Twist N Treat is a fun toy in which you can put various size treats. You can adjust the difficulty level of the toy by twisting the top and modifying the size of the opening on the side.

Chuckle

Either end of the Chuckle has inner-facing, soft, adjustable rubber prongs that move aside to allow the toy to be stuffed with kibble or treats. The prongs of the Treat Meter™ allow food and treats to randomly dispense, rewarding your dog as he plays.  Made of natural rubber. There's another similar product called Waggle, also by Premier.

AIKIOU DOG FEEDER


Website: http://www.aikiou.com/

Food is hidden inside this feeder’s many compartments, which your dog can access by sliding the doors open or spinng the central wheel. Allowing your dog to exercise his or her problem solving instincts with the Aikiou bowl fun and rewarding for you and your pet while keeping him fit by reducing his speed of ingestion.

Watch the YouTube video below to see some dogs eating out of an Aikiou:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSvx1264qM

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For ideas on what kinds of treats to put in the above food toys, see my last blog "Training Treats - A Biscuit Ain't Gonna Cut It".

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DEER ANTLERS

Website: http://www.qtdog.com/antlerz.htm 

These 100% naturally shed deer antlers are cleaned and packaged for the chewing pleasure of your dog! These natural dog chews will not splinter or chip making them a safe treat for even the most aggressive chewers. Not only will they satisfy your dogs need to gnaw but they will provide nutrition because they are naturally rich in minerals such as calcium and phosphorus. The only caveat with deer antlers is that they are very hard, so I've heard from a few dog owners that their dogs chipped a tooth. So this might be best for mild chewers rather than hardcore chewers, and better for adult dogs than puppies.

Available at Crazy Canine pet store in Aiea

RAW BEEF BONES

Primal brand raw beef marrow bones (right) available at Crazy Canine pet store in Aiea

Raw beef hooves (below) available at Tamura's grocery store (and probably meat departments of most grocery stores)

A raw beef bone or hoof is another good option for keeping your dog occupied.  Raw bones are good for the dogs' teeth, and are safer than cooked or smoked bones because they don't crack.  As gross as it might seem to a human, I have yet to meet a dog that doesn't love raw beef bones!  (Important Note: You should throw the bone away after 1 day, as the bone may accumulate bacteria and/or dry out and crack, which is dangerous for your dog.)

FROZEN WATER and CHICKEN BROTH WITH TOYS 'N TREATS!

Freeze water and chicken broth with toys, carrots, treats, etc to keep dogs from getting bored and overheated in the backyard.

COCONUT HUSK

Coconuts are everywhere in Hawaii.  This is an inexpensive and eco-friendly chew toy for those who don't want to bother with fancy toys.  You can even add a little flavor to the coconut husk by pouring some chicken broth or meat-based sauce on it.

Training Treats - A Biscuit Ain't Gonna Cut It

In dog training classes, I'm often asked what kind of treats I use.  I've listed a few below although the options are endless.  When training dogs (especially rambunctious adolescent dogs that would rather do anything but pay attention to its owners) it's important to use food/treats that are rewarding to the dog, and will motivate them to do what you ask of them.  I never use dry biscuits for training!  I try to pick smelly treats that are made with good ingredients.  Usually this ends up being real meat, or dog treats with meat or fish as the number one ingredient.  (For those of you with dogs on special diets, please scroll to the bottom for ideas on how you can enhance regular kibble.)

I also like to mix up the treats so the dogs never know what to expect.  All they know is that I'm the giver of yummy treats, and I will pay them for working for me!

Real Meat

If you have the time to cook and cut up real meat, such as liver or steak, that's the most economical way.  If you prefer something a bit easier, you can try pre-cooked meat such as the grilled chicken breast strips from Costco.  All you have to do is cut the strips into bite size pieces (1/2 inch or less) and voila, you have high-value dog treats.

For liver, it helps to bake it in the oven so it's a little drier and less messier to handle.

Once you cut the meat up into little pieces (1/4 to 1/3 inches) you can store them in the freezer in a Ziploc bag or tupperware,and then grab a handful before a dog walk or training session. The warm weather in Hawaii usually defrosts the treats by the time I use them. 


Freshpet Vital

Freshpet Vital is sold at pet stores like Petco, and is made of healthful yet delicious ingredients.  The treats come in small bite-size pellets so they're very easy to use for training.  You can cut the pellets into halves to get even more mileage. Dogs love this stuff!

Here's more info: http://freshpet.com/products/vitalcompletemealsdog/

Available at Petco, Petsmart and most major pet stores.


Natural Balance Dog Food Rolls

This is a big roll of dog food that comes in beef, turkey and lamb flavor.  I usually cut these rolls into little treat size cubes and store them in the refrigerator in a Ziploc bag.  These rolls have the texture of Spam, so it will stay solid even if you cut it up. But they're moist and easy for the dogs to swallow. When it's time for a training session or a walk, you can grab a handful of the treat cubes from the fridge.  The new formula contains sugar as a preservative, so it's probably best not to feed too much of this brand to your dog. 

http://www.naturalbalanceinc.com/dogformulas/DFRolls.html

Available at Feed Trough (Waialua), Crazy Canine (Aiea), Petco and most major pet stores.


Yummy Chummies

Yummy Chummies are available at Costco and come in a bulk value bag. This  treat is 95% wild Alaska salmon with Glucosamine and Chondroitin. The treats are easy to cut up into litle pieces, requires no refrigeration, and are a good source for natural omega 3 and 6 fatty acids!

Available (sometimes) at Costco


Lamb and Rice Jerky by Sunshine Mills

This comes in a clear container with a red lid and is available for a low price at Costco.  The jerky comes in a strip about 6 or 7 inches long, and is easy to tear into little pieces.  It's not a super-high-value treat for training purposes, but it can still be used for low-difficulty-level training.


Available at Costco


Wildside Salmon Training Treats for Dogs

These are bite-sized freeze-dried bits of salmon that dogs love.  These treats have a strong salmon smell so they are quite motivating for dogs.

http://www.wildsidesalmon.com/retailcatalog.html

Available at Crazy Canine (Aiea)


Real Meat Treat Jerky series (and other jerkies)

These soft jerky treats are made from real meat and come in various flavors including chicken & venison, lamb, fish & venison, beef and more.  The treats are really easy to tear up, so you can use little pieces for training to get the most bang out of your buck.

http://www.realmeatpet.com/realmeattreats.htm

Available at Crazy Canine (Aiea)




Crazy Canine Chicken Jerky

Dogs love these chicken treats.  Made in Hawaii, these treats are made with 100% chicken breast meat. Sliced thin and dried for 10 hours for a delicious crunchy snack. No preservatives, salt, nor sugar, just chicken.  Because the chicken is dried, I tend to use this treat during training rather than dog walks.  During walks the dogs are running around and panting, so if they eat a dry treat like this, sometimes they swallow too fast and start coughing.

Available at Crazy Canine in Aiea

Pet Botanics Omega Salmon Treats

Dogs love Cardinal Laboratories’ unique 5-layer Pet Botanics Healthy Omega Treats, especially this salmon flavor.  It is stinky and easy to cut into smaller pieces.  They contain no wheat, soybean, glutens, grains, or artificial flavor. They offer Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids and antioxidants that make your dog’s coat shine. Ingredients include salmon sweet potato, and cod.

Available online

Stewart's Beef Liver Treats (Freeze Dried)

These freeze dried liver treats come in something resembling a plastic yogurt container.  The liver has a strong smell, even if it's dried, and I have yet to meet a dog who doesn't love it.  The treats come in approximately 3/4 inch pieces, but you can easily cut them up with a knife to get more mileage out of the treats.

Available at Feed Trough (Waialua), Pets R Us (Mililani) and many other pet stores

Plato Salmon Strips and Plato Thinker Sticks

Over 90% salmon, these treats are very smelly and flavorful.  The strips are easy to tear into pieces, and are perfect for training and for nose work. Also sold in chicken and duck flavors.

Available at Calvin & Susie in Honolulu, Crazy Canine in Aiea, Pets Plus and other Hawaii pet stores







"Enhanced" Kibble

Place the dog's food ration in a Ziploc bag. Drizzle some chicken or beef soup stock over the kibble, but not so much as to make it soupy. Shake the bag up so the soup stock gets on all the kibble, then use the kibble as training treats. You can also change the taste up by cutting up a few pieces of hot dog or meat and then microwaving it. Put those pieces into the Ziploc bag with the kibble and shake it up. Then remove the hot dog.

Come When Called...Or Not?

Does your dog come when called?  For most of us, the answer is, "It depends." It depends on whether the dog is distracted with something, whether you're at home or on the beach, and so on.  Most dog owners don't have this challenge while their dog is a puppy.  But come adolescence, the dogs develop more independence (just like teenager kids) and they'd rather be exploring the world and hanging out with their friends than hanging out with Mom and Dad.

Well then, how do you get your dog to come to you in all, or at least in most, situations?  It's all about conditioning your dog to think that coming to you is a good thing.  Below are 12 guidelines to help you teach your dog to come amidst distractions...

1. TEACH YOUR DOG WHAT “COME” MEANS

The first thing to do is teach your dog what is expected of them when you say “Come” (it can be another word such as “Here” if you prefer). At first, your dog won’t know what it means, so you will want to say “Come” when your dog is walking towards you anyway. Or you can say “Come,” then right away make noises or movements that will encourage your dog to come towards you. In other words, you are letting your dog hear the word “Come” as he does the corresponding behavior. With repetition, the dog learns that “Come” means that he should come to you.

Often, dogs will come to you when you just call their names, but it’s recommended that you teach your dog specifically what “Come” means.  The name is meant to get your dog’s attention before you ask for a specific behavior, for example, “Fido, Come” or “Fido, Down.”

2. MAKE IT WORTHWHILE FOR YOUR DOG / USE HIGH-VALUE REWARDS

One of the best ways to condition a reliable recall is to make it worthwhile for your dog to come to you.  Let’s look at it from your dog's point of view.  Say your dog is playing with his doggie friends and you ask him to come to you.  He does so, and you put him on leash and take him away from his friends.  Do you think your dog will come to you next time he’s playing with his friends? 

For most dogs, food is the number one thing they will work for.  If you're going to use food rewards, I recommend high-value food for Recall training.  Coming when called can be one of the most important things your dog ever learns - it could even save his life in a dangerous situation.  By “paying” for your dog’s recall with delicious treats, you are drastically increasing the odds that your dog will come to you when you ask. (Please refer to the treat chart at the end for ideas.) The treat should be equal in value or more valuable than whatever the distractions are, so you can “compete” with them.

Praise is good, but usually doesn't work as an only reward.  If your boss at work praised you profusely for doing a good job, it might make you feel good the first few times, but if you didn't also get a paycheck, then you'd probably end up quitting your job.  We all work for something.  What will your dog will work for?

It’s good to mix up the rewards too, i.e. alternate what you use as treats.  It will be more exciting for your dog.

3. START WITH BRIBING BUT SWITCH TO REWARDING

Assuming your dog has learned what “Come” means at this stage, you may find that he still won’t come to you if the distraction is extra interesting.  In that case, stick a treat right to his nose, say “Come” and take a few steps away. Usually with a treat right in front of his face, the dog will follow you.  Release the treat as soon as he takes a few steps with you, then send him back to play.

This is called bribing because you are showing your dog what he will get as a reward. We are teaching the dog that it "pays" to come to you even though there are other exciting things going on.

After you've used a bribe several times in a particular situation (such as while playing with another dog), transition to a reward system, i.e. instead of showing the dog your treat first, have the dog to come to you first, then pull out the treat.  This way, your dog won’t always rely on seeing or smelling your treat first. But he will trust that you’ll still pay him for coming.

4. ASSESS DIFFICULTY LEVEL OF EACH DISTRACTION / VARY THE REWARD QUANTITY and QUALITY BASED ON DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Each type of distraction has a different level of difficulty in terms of being able to call your dog off of it.  You may find it helpful to make a list of your dog's distraction, rate the difficulty levels, and decide what kind of rewards to use:

~ Geckos - MILDLY DIFFICULT – use medium value treats

~ Smells - grass, trees, other dogs' pee - MODERATELY DIFFICULT – use medium value treats

~ Cats - MODERATELY DIFFICULT – use medium value treats

~ Other dogs - VERY DIFFICULT – use high value treats

~ Cat poop - VERY DIFFICULT – use high value treats
- On the beach - ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE – use multiple super-high value treats!

You will want to train for each type of distraction so that your dog can generalize the Recall in various situations. Keep in mind also that the DISTANCE from which you call your dog can also add to the difficulty level. 

When your dog successfully comes to you in a distracting environment, it helps to give several small treats rather than just one big treat.  If you give several small treats consecutively rather than just one small treat, or several treats all at once, then you encourage the dog to stick around after he comes to you, instead of doing an “eat and run.”  Giving multiple treats also prolongs the enjoyable “treat party” for your dog, making it even more rewarding.

5. SET YOUR DOG UP FOR SUCCESS / GRADUALLY INCREASE DIFFICULTY LEVEL

While your dog is still learning to come to you and away from distractions, you can set your dog up for success by making things easier.  For example, rather than calling your dog from 20 feet away at the beach, walk halfway to your dog and then ask him to Come. Increase the distance as your dog becomes more reliable in his recalls.

If your dog hasn't learned to come to you in the presence of certain distractions yet, then it's better not to ask him to Come in that situation, because he may ignore you.  Instead, you can do one of the following: 1) avoid that situation, 2) keep your dog on leash, or 3) reward your dog for "checking in" with you voluntarily, rather than explicitly asking for a Come.

If your dog is playing with other dogs, or sniffing something really interesting, learn to recognize the natural pauses during the play or sniffing, and use those moments to call your dog, rather than saying Come when they are fully focused on what they’re doing. 

6. SEND YOUR DOG BACK TO PLAY 9 OUT OF 10 TIMES / KEEP IT POSITIVE

Nine out of ten times that you ask your dog to Come, send your dog back to play (or whatever he was doing before you called him) right after he comes to you and gets his reward.  This way, your dog will learn that when he comes to you, he gets a yummy treat (or toy) AND he gets to go back and play.  Coming to you does not mean “the end of fun.”

If possible avoid associating Come with things that your dog doesn't enjoy, such as taking a bath, clipping his nails or leaving the dog park. Your dog may start to avoid you when you say Come, because it means bad things.  If you need to wash your dog or clip his nails, you can quietly put him on a leash without saying Come.

7. COMMUNICATE CLEARLY

Be clear in your communication.  I recommend saying your dog's name first to get his attention, and then the word Come.  For instance, "Fido, (dog looks), Come!" rather than "Come here puppy" one day and then "Over Here" another day.  Say the name clearly first, wait for a head turn or acknowledgment, and then immediately say Come (or use a hand signal) with enthusiasm.

Remember that it's windy in Hawaii, and there are times when your dog may not hear you because you are downwind from him.  If your dog doesn't know his name very well, it's a good idea to teach him his name before teaching him other verbal cues like Come.

8. USE PRAISE AND BODY LANGUAGE EFFECTIVELY (ESPECIALLY IN THE INITIAL STAGES)

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You’ve probably seen dogs that start coming to the owner, but get distracted partway and walk away at a 90-degree angle.  Praising your dog with enthusiasm as he starts to come to you will encourage your dog to keep coming to you - not only are you more exciting now, the dog also enjoys the praise. 

You might also find that standing at an angle (i.e not facing your dog directly), or walking in the other direction while maintaining eye contact (i.e. as if you want your dog to chase you) will also encourage your dog to come to you.  Facing your dog or walking towards him as you say Come may appear intimidating, or like you're chasing him, which will trigger his "running away" instinct.

Sometimes a dog comes to the owner but then ducks his head away from the owner's hands because the dog doesn’t like to have his face petted or his collar grabbed.  It can help to have your dog target your treat hand, and if you have to leash your dog, then gently and inconspicuously grab her collar while she's eating the treat.

Some shy dogs feel intimidated if their human leans over them or towers over them.  It might help to squat down, or stand straight without leaning over the dog.

 

9. GIVE YOUR DOG ENOUGH EXERCISE, DOG PLAY, MENTAL STIMULATION AND OFF-LEASH TIME

Make sure that your dog regularly gets enough exercise, socialization with other dogs and/or off-leash time to get his ya-ya's out.  If your dog likes to smell the environment, then make sure he gets enough sniffing time in. Otherwise, he may run away every time you take his leash off, because that's the only way he can fulfill his own needs.

For an energetic or young dog, a 30-minute leashed walk in your neighborhood probably won’t cut it, even if it's twice a day.  They need to run, play with other dogs, swim, play fetch or go hiking!

10. SAY IT ONCE

Get in the habit of saying Come only once.  Otherwise the cue becomes "Come, come, come…I SAID COME!!" and your dog will learn that he doesn't have to come the first time you say it. 

11. COME MEANS COME

Assuming you followed the guidelines above, including not asking for more than your dog has been trained for, then your dog should come to you most of the time.  But a dog is not a machine, and you will find yourself in situations where your dog “blows you off.”  In these situations, it’s a good idea to go and get your dog. There’s no need to scold or punish your dog; just calmly go and get your dog.  This way your dog doesn’t get rewarded for ignoring you.

12. REWARD SCHEDULES

When your dog is initially learning Come, or if he is learning for the first time to Come away from a particular type of distraction (such as another dog), you should reward him every single time he complies to your Come.

As your dog becomes very reliable at recalls (with and without distractions, from a distance, in all environments), you may not need to reward 100% of the recalls. 

It's scientifically proven that a random reward schedule will make a simple behavior stronger.  You can see it in slot machine gamblers - they'd get bored if they won every single time, and they'd lose interest if they NEVER won, but because they only win sometimes, they are driven to keep pulling that lever.  Pulling a slot machine lever is pretty easy though. What if you had to solve a New York Times crossword puzzle in order to win money. It’s a more complex problem, and you’d probably want to get paid every time.

Take this into consideration when deciding when and how much to reward your dog for his recalls.  If you see your dog’s recall response declining, then it might mean that you’re not rewarding enough or that your treats are low value. I myself like to reward my dog at least 60% of easy recalls and 99% of difficult recalls for the rest of its life. It’s better to reward too much than too little and be sure to get a reliable response when you really need it. It’s like depositing money into your bank account; you’ll be able to withdraw some day when you need it most!

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I hope these guidelines help you train your dog's recall.  As with the rest of the advice on my blog, they are just guidelines, and I recommend supplementing them with a group class or private lessons with an in-person trainer.  There also some great videos out there including Dr. Patricia McConnell's "Lassie Come!" video: http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/product/lassie-come-dvd-dog-recall-training  

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TREATS AND FOOD

Treats don’t have to be expensive store-bought dog treats. They can be cut up pieces of real meat, or something else your dog goes crazy for.  Usually, the wetter and stinkier the better!  If you’re not sure what your dog likes, try a taste test.  Dry biscuits are usually not as effective because the top ingredient is typically not meat.

LOW VALUE (not recommended for Recall training)

·       Dry dog biscuits

·       Kibble

MEDIUM VALUE (can work for low distraction Recall training)

·       Zukes-type training treats

·       Dried jerky treats

·       Other packaged but non-refrigerated dog treats

HIGH VALUE (works well for higher distraction Recall training)

·       Freeze dried dog treats such as beef liver, salmon and other meat

·       Plato salmon and duck treats

·       Cheese

·       Freshpet Vital and other refrigerated dog treats

·       Sliced hot dog

·       Cold cuts (turkey, ham, bologna)

·       Steak, chicken^^, liver and other cooked meat and fish (i.e. not packaged dog treats)

^^ Costco sells packages of pre-grilled chicken that are easy to cut up into small pieces.

Please see my blog below for photos of the above treats and other ideas:

http://woofpackhawaii.blogspot.com/2011/09/training-treats-biscuit-aint-gonna-cut.html