Help! My Puppy is a Terror!

Puppies are wonderful...cute, fluffy, and oh so loveable....except when they're not!  Some of the most common behavior issues that dog owners contact me to resolve are boredom barking and destructive chewing/digging.  99% of the time, these dogs are puppies and adolescent dogs (up to 1 or 1.5 years old).

Those of you who have human children understand that kids need to go to school, study, play with other children, do sports and other activities.  If you kept your kid locked up in a room all day with nothing to do and nobody to play with, he or she would go bonkers.  The same applies to puppies and adolescent dogs.

Below is a list of things you can do to channel your puppy's energy and prevent problem behaviors followed by more details:

• EXERCISE
• MENTAL STIMULATION
• CHEW TOYS: FOOD TOYS instead of FOOD BOWLS, RAW BONES instead of  NYLABONES
• PUPPY PROOF THE ENVIRONMENT
• EAGLE EYE: MONITOR YOUR PUP
• CRATING AND KENNELING
• OTHER ALTERNATIVES: DOG WALKER, DAYCARE, DOG SITTING TRADE

EXERCISE

Although I'm not a fan of some of Cesar Millan's behavior modification techniques, I like how he ecourages dog owners to give their dogs "Exercise, Discipline, and then Affection."

Unless you have a couch potato puppy, you will want to give your puppy daily exercise.  By exercise, I don't mean a 30 minute leashed walk.  A leashed walk is good for training and bonding, but it will be nowhere near enough exercise for most puppies and adolescent dogs.  Jogging or running is not usually recommended for puppies because their bones are not fully developed, and the repetitive motions of running can negatively affect their growth.

One of the best ways to burn a puppy's energy is Puppy Play.  Get together with other puppy owners in your neighborhood for daily play sessions if possible.  If you don't know of any puppies in your area, you can sign up for puppy classes.  Or you can set up play sessions with friendly adult dogs who won't be annoyed by a puppy.

For adolescent dogs that are fully immunized, I recommend off leash hikes.  If your dog doesn't have a good recall, or you don't want to let your dog off leash for some other safety reason, you can use a long line or retractable leash.  There's a product called Jerk Ease that you can attach to your leash so that you won't get pulled off your feet when your dog reaches the end of the leash.  Meanwhile you can start training a reliable recall in your pup.

The great thing about an off-leash hike is that the dog can vary his pace according to what's comfortable for him.  He can sprint for a little, sniff the bush a little, then walk a little, sprint again or run around in circles, and so on.

Swimming is a fun form of exercise that can be done even in the heat of day.  You can keep your dog on a long line if you are concerned about him running away or jumping on other beachgoers. Doggie flotation vests can help your dog can get maximum paddling exercise without worrying about staying afloat.

Playing fetch in the yard is another easy way to exercise a dog.  If your dog doesn't know how to fetch, you can teach it to him by putting treats inside a plastic water bottle or toy.  The only way your dog gets to eat a treat is if he brings the bottle back to you.  You can gradually throw the bottle farther and farther away.

Agility, nose work, Treibball, schutzhund, flyball, truffle hunting, herding, dock diving, etc. - There are all kinds of fun classes and activities out there to exercise your dog while also giving him a mental challenge. Which brings me to the next recommendation....

MENTAL STIMULATION

Obedience Training - Physical exercise is not the only way to drain a dog's energy.  You can also do so by challenging your dog with self-control exercises including obedience training.  You'll have the added benefit of having a better behaved dog.  I recommend keeping training sessions short (i.e. 5 minutes) and doing them throughout the day rather than doing one long session.

Out and About - Take your dog with you when you run errands or when you visit your friends.  Just driving around in a car with you or meeting new people can provide lots of mental stimulation for your dog.  You'll be surprised at how exhausted he will be when you get home.

Clicker Training - Teach your dog how to do fun tricks or useful tasks such as retrieving objects or closing/opening doors and drawers.  The cool thing about clicker training is that your dog has to figure out what he needs to do in order to get rewarded.  It's a lot more mentally challenging for a dog than being told what to do.  Service dogs are trained to do all kinds of complex tasks via clicker training.

Scent Work - Dogs have a really good sense of smell.  Nose games are an excellent way to mentally stimulate a dog, especially on a rainy day when you can't take your dog out for a regular walk. It can be as simple as hiding treats around the house or yard, or as challenging as teaching your dog to search for your car keys. If you have a food-motivated pup, why not feed all his meals through hunting games in the house?  At first, you may have to show him that you're hiding his food. Once he starts to understand the game, you can put your dog away while you hide the food, then bring the dog out and tell him to go "Find it!"

Dog Sports and Activities - As mentioned in the previous section, there are lots of dog activities popping up all over the world, including Treibball, where dogs are taught to herd yoga balls instead of sheep! Find the right activity for your dog based on his breed, temperament and personality, and you are guaranteed to have a happy and tired dog at the end of the day.

Toys - It's a good idea to rotate your dog's toys to prevent boredom.  For instance, you can give your puppy toys A and B today, toys C and D tomorrow, toys E and F the day after tomorrow, then go back to toys A and B the following day, and so on.  Squeaky toys might be more interesting than a non-squeaky toy.  I usually don't give stuffed toys to destructive dogs because they will tear them apart in minutes and leave a huge mess of stuffed cotton to clean up!

CHEW TOYS: Food Toys instead of Food Bowls, Raw Bones instead of Nylabones

Dogs are predators and enjoy hunting for food.  Why not challenge them with a food toy instead of feeding their meals out of a bowl?  For super high drive dogs, a Kong stuffed with kibble and wet food, then freezed overnight should be challenging.  Below is an article I wrote with ideas on different food toys and ways to stuff them:

http://woofpackhawaii.blogspot.com/2011/10/enrichment-food-toys-for-bored-and.html

Young puppies will also need something to chew on if they are teething.  Nylabones and other plastic or rubber toys are okay, but your puppy might lose interest pretty quickly because there's no flavor.  If your vet approves, you can try giving your dog a raw marrow bone or raw beef hoof instead.  I've yet to meet a dog that does not LOVE chewing on a raw bone.  It's safer than a cooked or smoked bone because a raw bone doesn't crack so long as it's fresh.  It's also good for your dog's teeth and gums.

PUPPY PROOF THE ENVIRONMENT

A well-exercised and mentally stimulated puppy should do less destructive chewing and digging.  However puppies are puppies, and don't know that they're not supposed to dig and chew your belongings.  Just like it's necessary to babyproof a house, it's necessary to puppy proof a house, at least until the puppy is older and has gotten past the chewing/digging phase. Below are some things you can do:

~ Put shoes and slippers in a place that your puppy can't reach

~ Put away other "contraband" such as sunglasses, purse and cell phone

~ Use flexible wire fencing in your yard to close off areas with plants and other fragile objects

~ Use a deterrent product such as Bitter Apple for objects you can't put away such as furniture

Don't let your puppy practice bad behaviors because they'll turn into habits.  Instead, prevent the bad behavior and give him something better to do or chew. As he grows older, they will turn into good habits, and he won't even think about chewing the wrong thing.

EAGLE EYE: MONITOR YOUR PUP

When you are at home with your puppy, it's important to keep an eye on him or her at all times and prevent inappropriate chewing and digging.  If you see him about to do something inappropriate, redirect his attention right away and give him something appropriate to do or chew instead.

Don't scold your puppy because he won't necessarily understand why he's being scolded.  In fact, he may even start to do the digging/chewing only when you're not watching, because he knows he'll be "safe" then.

CRATING AND KENNELING

Crate, kennel or confine your dog when you can't monitor him/her.  As long as you give your dog enough exercise, attention and mental stimulation, there's nothing wrong with crating a dog.  In fact, it's good for your pup to learn how to calm down and have "down time."  It's also a good idea to get your dog used to being in a crate - if by some chance you have to go to a disaster shelter, they usually only accept animals in crates.  If you ever have to move for your job and you have to fly to the new location, your dog will need to be crated in the plane.

If your dog is new to crating or kenneling, make sure you associate the crate or kennel with good things so your dog doesn't start resenting it.  For instance, give your dog his stuffed Kong food toy every time he goes into his crate.  For more tips, please read my blog article on how to get your dog comfortable being in a crate.

It's a good idea to crate or kennel an unsupervised dog until he or she is one or 1.5 years old.  That's the typical age that a dog outgrows his bad habits of chewing and digging inappropriately.  I don't recommend crating a dog for more than 3-4 hours at at time during the day, because they will need to potty and stretch their legs.

OTHER ALTERNATIVES: DOG WALKER, DOG DAYCARE, DOG SITTING TRADES

If you have to leave your puppy or adolescent dog unsupervised for longer than that because of your work schedule, some additonal options include hiring a dog walker, using a dog daycare, asking your relatives to dog sit, or doing a daycare trade with neighbors or friends.

BAT: What It Means To Me

Beth Chambers Carbone participated in our Leash Lungers Anonymous class where we teach BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training) techniques to rehabilitate reactive, fearful and aggressive dogs.  Here she writes about what she learned and how the class helped her and her dog.

For more info on the class, which I co-teach with Pro-Dog Hawaii, please email me!

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ProDog Hawaii's Behavior Adjustment Training sessions for aggressive dogs changed my experience of walking my dog.  I think most of of think of walking a dog as a peaceful experience.  We get to spend pleasurable time with our dog, we feel the sunshine on our backs, we enjoy the beautiful landscapes of Hawaii... But my walks were not like that for a long time.

My dog, Nero, is an "intact" male Bulmastiff.  He is wonderful with humans, but he doesn't like strange dogs.  I have always been very careful on my walks to avoid other dogs -- and by avoid, I mean I walked across streets, turned around, or even ran when I saw other dogs coming close.  Nero would lunge towards strange dogs, and it was very unpleasant for me.  Every day, when I walked Nero, I felt as if I was walking in a minefield: always trying to see beyond blind corners, practicing active avoidance when I saw dogs.  And if another dog and it's owner "snuck up behind me" (i.e., walked up behind me) I would feel panic!  So my walks weren't very fun. 

That changed after Nero and I participated in BAT with Marie and Kyoko and two other dogs (Hiro and Hina).  The goal of BAT is simple: learn how to encourage non-aggressive behaviors by marking them and rewarding the dogs.  And really, that's what it is.  We met for 4 weeks, 1 hour each week, and went through a series of activities that taught us how to recognize neutralization behaviors and reward them.  So I learned what Nero does when he exhibits aggressive behavior and also when he is showing calming/neutral signals.  When he would give me those calm/neutral signals, I would immediately mark it, turn away from the other dog, and then give a reward.  We did this over and over, getting closer and closer to the other dogs.  In this experience, I learned what Nero does to be calm.  But he also learned what I want him to do when he sees another dog.

The amazing thing about it is that the behavior and training have extended beyond the two dogs we worked with. Now when we are on walks and see other dogs, I don't feel that I need to walk away.  Now that doesn't mean I get too close:  I know now that Nero is okay at about 8-10 feet away. And Nero knows that he can look at the other dog -- sometimes for many seconds -- and then he will turn his head, lick his lips, and look me in the eye.  I know that means that he is telling me he's calm, and I reward him and walk away.  Today, I was walking him and a woman walked very close to me with a big dog.  I was standing near a tree, all alone in a field, and this woman cut right towards me!   Even though I was trying to give her signals (such as saying, "Please don't come too close to me because I have an aggressive dog."), she just kept coming.  I couldn't believe it!  But guess what?  My dog Nero just sat and looked.  When she finally stopped, about six feet away from me, my dog looked at me and looked away from her dog!  I gave him a treat and then we walked on. 

So, now I really am enjoying my walks with my dog.  I am not constantly afraid that my dog is going to suddenly lunge at another dog, and I feel more confident that everything will be okay even when the unexpected happens.  Yes, I think my dog will stay alert and could be aggressive with other dogs. But the great thing is that he knows how to communicate with me, and I know how to recognize his signals.  He'll let me know if I am getting too close to another dog, and I will respect his boundaries.  And so we will walk!

Guidelines for Re-Homing A Dog

In case you are in a situation where you are fostering a stray dog and cannot keep him/her, or you must re-home your own dog for a valid reason, I've written some guidelines to ensure that your dog goes to a good home.

CRAIGLIST

Craigslist's Community-Pets section is a good place to post an ad (although you have to make sure you screen potential adopters very carefully).  It always helps to post cute photos of the dog, and as many details about the dog as possible, such as age, temperament, neuter status, health, likes/dislikes, training history, dog-friendly, people-friendly, good with kids, etc. so you can find good adoption candidates and eliminate bad ones right off the bat.  It also helps to post the ad in first person, as if the dog is writing it.  For example:

"Hi, my name is Kona and I'm a super-friendly 2.5 yr old male neutered Lab mix who is looking for a forever home because my current owner passed away.  I like children but I'd probably do best in a home with no children, because I'm big and strong and could knock a baby over.  I love to swim and run so it would be a plus if you are active and enjoy going to the beach!"
...and so on.  People like to hear a little history about the dog too, such as where he came from, and why he needs a new home.

Talking to potential adopters on the phone first will give you a good idea of whether they are a good match.  If they are, you can set up an appointment to meet them in person.

Information you'll want to post about your dog include:

GENERAL DOG INFO
* Is your dog neutered or spayed?
* Is your dog up to date on all vaccinations?
* Age?
* Male or female?
* Breed or breed mix?
* Weight?
* General health?
* Is your dog on flea/tick preventative, heartworm preventative?

DOG BEHAVIOR INFO
* Is your dog potty trained?
* What energy level is your dog (i.e. low, medium, high, super high)?
* Does your dog get along with other dogs? If not, please describe.
* Does your dog get along with cats?
* How is your dog with young children?
* Does your dog have any behavioral issues that adopters should be aware of? (You should be honest here, for the sake of everyone's safety.)
* What does your dog do that is cute or endearing?
* What activities does your dog enjoy that will help potential adopters better understand his or her personality?

YOUR INFO
* What are the circumstances for your having to re-home your dog?
* Are you asking for a re-homing fee? If so, what?
* In what area of Oahu do you live?
* What is the best way for potential adopters to reach you? Provide phone number and/or email.
* Do you have a deadline for re-homing your dog?

Important Note: If your dog has issues with other dogs/people/children, it is important that you let potential adopters know, rather than hide it because you are worried your dog won't get adopted.  Even if you might get less people inquiring about your dog, you can be comfortable knowing that only people who accept and can manage your dog's issues will adopt your dog.  You don't necessarily have to post details of behavioral problems on the ad itself, but you should mention it on the phone or in person.

PHOTO TIPS
When posting a photo in an ad or flyer, it helps to post a cute photo of the dog.  You will get a lot more responses if the dog looks happy and approachable rather than scared or unkempt. 

Photo Tip: Putting a plumeria behind her ear makes her look even cuter than she is! Get creative with props. You can use leis, bandanas, toys, and more. Just make sure your dog isn't stressed out by the props.

Photo Tip: Try to capture your dog "smiling" (mouth open, tongue hanging) and looking happy. An active shot (playing, running) is also nice, although harder to capture.

Photo Tip: This is an example of a less than ideal photo - you can't see the dog's face, he has red dirt all over his fur and he looks ragged in general.

Photo Tip: This is another less than ideal photo, taken at the vet clinic. Her body is tense, mouth closed and looking away from the camera.

LOCAL RESCUE ORGANIZATIONS
Another option you can pursue in conjunction is the local dog rescue groups.  On Oahu there are several including Hawaii Dog Foundation, HARF (Hawaii Animal Rescue Foundation), K9 Kokua, Oahu SPCA.  Most of them are very busy with stray animals and most likely will not be able to take in an owner-relinquished dog, but they may be able to help you in other ways.

For instance, Hawaii Dog Foundation will let you post an ad on their Private Adoptions page for a small donation.  The Private Adoption ad will be seen by potential adopters who will contact you directly if they are interested.  For more info go to:
 
http://www.hawaiidogfoundation.org/meet-more-dogs-courtesy-listing/apply-for-courtesy-listing/

You may also ask if you can attend their adoption events and showcase your dog to potential adopters.

SHELTER

The Hawaiian Humane Society is Oahu's only open admissions shelter, meaning they will accept animals at all times, including owner-relinquished dogs.  Because they are open admissions, they cannot possibly have enough space for all relinquished and stray animals.  Nor can they possibly adopt out all animals.  Inevitably, some animals may be euthanized.

If you are turning in a stray dog, you can ask HHS to put your contact info into the dog's record, and to contact you if the dog is deemed "unadoptable" for medical or behavioral reasons.  You will then have the choice to adopt the dog back out of HHS, and seek out other options for finding a home for the dog.  However, if the dog is deemed "adoptable," then he or she will be placed in one of their adoption kennels and hopefully will find a happy forever home.

VET CLINICS and PET STORES

You can also make and post flyers at vet clinics and pet stores.  In addition, talk directly to the vets, vet techs and pet store employees.  Pet professionals often know of people who are looking to adopt a particular kind of dog, or a new dog because their old dog passed away.

ADOPTION APPLICATION

If you want to ensure that your dog goes to a good home, it's a good idea to ask potential adopters to fill out an application.  This will not only show you how sincere they are, but will also allow you to see on paper if they are a good fit for your dog.  Here's a link to an adoption application you can use:  http://www.countrycaninehawaii.com/AdoptionApplication.doc

RE-HOMING FEE - YAY OR NAY?

Some people think that asking for an adoption fee is inappropriate, as if it makes you look like you're selling an animal just for the money.  I personally think that an adoption fee is a good idea because it shows you that a) the adopter can afford to care for the animal - after all, they will have to spend money on medical bills and food after the adoption, and b) the adopter is not just looking for a free dog that they might resell for profit, or even worse, give to a dog-fighting ring.

$75-$150 seems to be what most people ask for, but you can ask for more if you paid for neutering or spaying a stray animal that you are fostering.

HOME VISIT and MEET AND GREET

Once you have found the right adopter, the last thing you will want to do is to visit their home to make sure the house is clean, safe and suitable for a dog.  If the adopter doesn't want you to see their home, it's a red flag.

Also, if the adopter has other pets, you will want to make sure that all animals get along.  If their existing dog is territorial, introduce the dogs to each other on neutral ground.  You can also hire a dog trainer to help with dog introductions.

SPAYING AND NEUTERING

In order to minimize pet overpopulation and irresponsible breeding, it's a good idea to spay or neuter your dog before you place him in a new home.  The adopter may say they will not breed the dog, but the reality is that most people don't intentionally breed their dogs.  It happens by accident.  If you can't afford the spay/neuter surgery, you can get a "Neuter Now" discount certificate at City Hall, or use an inexpensive vet clinic, such as North Shore Vet.  You can also pass the surgery expense on to the adopter, stating that the adoption fee includes spay/neuter.


ADOPTION CONTRACT

Below is a link to an adoption contract you can have your dog's adopter read and sign.  Hopefully you will never have to use the contract against the adopter, but if you do, you will have a legal document allowing you to take your dog back if necessary.

http://www.countrycaninehawaii.com/AdoptionContract.doc

SUMMARY

I hope the above guidelines are helpful to you.  If you have questions about the re-homing process, feel free to email me.  I am always happy to help people who care about the well-being of dogs.